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Makotosun
1974 DT125A Build/Restore
- torqueflight
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Replied by torqueflight on topic 1974 DT125A Build/Restore
RT325
Oddly enough there werent any of those in there, unless they all just disintegrated.
Thanks MarkT
Oddly enough there werent any of those in there, unless they all just disintegrated.
Thanks MarkT
30 May 2021 00:30
#71
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- torqueflight
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Replied by torqueflight on topic 1974 DT125A Build/Restore
Also there was a washer laying in the bottom of the case when I pulled the cover. Not sure where it goes.
Possibly here (end of the white gear)?
Friction plates have no abrasives.
Metal plates arent in the greatest shape. They are a little messed up from being seized to the abrasives. I gave them a figure 8 on the concrete floor of the garage since its pretty flat. Guess we shall see if it works.
Possibly here (end of the white gear)?
Friction plates have no abrasives.
Metal plates arent in the greatest shape. They are a little messed up from being seized to the abrasives. I gave them a figure 8 on the concrete floor of the garage since its pretty flat. Guess we shall see if it works.
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- torqueflight
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Replied by torqueflight on topic 1974 DT125A Build/Restore
Still no clue on the running lights. Any ideas where to start? All the lights work expect running lights and gauge lights. I tired looking at the diagram and its a nightmare. The fuse near the back of the seat in the clear protector was out. I replaced it and it didnt do anything.
30 May 2021 01:51
#73
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- Gr8uncleal
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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic 1974 DT125A Build/Restore
Just a few comments and observations that may or may not help:-
I'm surprised that you had any electrics at all (and the bike ran!) without a fuse in place. It is dangerous if someone has bypassed this and you should investigate.
All wiring is colour coded and will go red to red, blue to blue, black to black etc. It's worth giving the wire covers a quick clean with petrol or such like, as some of them can get dirty and darken over time.
The bike should have a well charged, 12v battery fitted.
Are all the bulbs 12v and tested as working? You can bench test the lights in situ by running wires direct to them from the battery. If they bench test as working, the issue is in the bike's switches or wiring, if they don't work, the issue is in the items themselves.
I'm surprised that you had any electrics at all (and the bike ran!) without a fuse in place. It is dangerous if someone has bypassed this and you should investigate.
All wiring is colour coded and will go red to red, blue to blue, black to black etc. It's worth giving the wire covers a quick clean with petrol or such like, as some of them can get dirty and darken over time.
The bike should have a well charged, 12v battery fitted.
Are all the bulbs 12v and tested as working? You can bench test the lights in situ by running wires direct to them from the battery. If they bench test as working, the issue is in the bike's switches or wiring, if they don't work, the issue is in the items themselves.
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- torqueflight
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Replied by torqueflight on topic 1974 DT125A Build/Restore
It could of been that the fuse fell apart when I went to check it.
The battery is brand new. Check the switch at the handle bar and it seemed fine.
Im not even sure what the running lights should work. Do they come on when you put the head light switch on?
The battery is brand new. Check the switch at the handle bar and it seemed fine.
Im not even sure what the running lights should work. Do they come on when you put the head light switch on?
30 May 2021 03:33
#75
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic 1974 DT125A Build/Restore
You might want to define "running lights". You have a headlight and taillight. Brake light and turn signals. And then some dash lights.
Also, it's odd that your clutch is missing the rubbers and that you have the "tabbed" steels. Someone has been in there before because the rubbers are missing... which seems strange with the low miles. Should have had the rubbers for sure and pretty sure those non-symmetrical steels were not original in 74... could be wrong about that... yes, parts lists show them now but memory says they were a later invention.
And you might want to check the manual on adjustment and measuring the clutch plates and springs. Those frictions look fine, just need to measure how thick they are. Also if your pressure plate isn't "toothed" to lock to inner hub the plate stack must end with a steel plate, not a friction. There's some very good threads here on clutch slippage. Springs could be sacked out too.
A very likely cause is simply not enough internal freeplay or a gummed up worm gear. Adjustment screw and worm gear are in the ignition side cover.
Also, it's odd that your clutch is missing the rubbers and that you have the "tabbed" steels. Someone has been in there before because the rubbers are missing... which seems strange with the low miles. Should have had the rubbers for sure and pretty sure those non-symmetrical steels were not original in 74... could be wrong about that... yes, parts lists show them now but memory says they were a later invention.
And you might want to check the manual on adjustment and measuring the clutch plates and springs. Those frictions look fine, just need to measure how thick they are. Also if your pressure plate isn't "toothed" to lock to inner hub the plate stack must end with a steel plate, not a friction. There's some very good threads here on clutch slippage. Springs could be sacked out too.
A very likely cause is simply not enough internal freeplay or a gummed up worm gear. Adjustment screw and worm gear are in the ignition side cover.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
30 May 2021 10:15
#76
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- torqueflight
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Replied by torqueflight on topic 1974 DT125A Build/Restore
Heres the stack next to the pressure plate. It was indeed the metal plate first.
The center abrasive looked pretty burned.
And the abrasives dont really seem like they are abrasive or grippy at all. Just feels like old hard plastic. I can even carve into it with a fingernail.
Heres the clutch cable on the stator side. Is this adjustable? If so thats also all the way in.
Also curious about this part? Is the spring part like an advance for the timing? The wing parts that look like they should come out and super sticky from the rust.
The center abrasive looked pretty burned.
And the abrasives dont really seem like they are abrasive or grippy at all. Just feels like old hard plastic. I can even carve into it with a fingernail.
Heres the clutch cable on the stator side. Is this adjustable? If so thats also all the way in.
Also curious about this part? Is the spring part like an advance for the timing? The wing parts that look like they should come out and super sticky from the rust.
30 May 2021 14:13
#77
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic 1974 DT125A Build/Restore
Yes, the clutch adjustment is about the center of your pic right at the bottom... just to right of generator.
Metal plate has to go in last before pressure plate.
Disks do look bad but they are not "abrasive" or anything. Like I said, making sure the thickness is in spec... even with new ones if you didn't buy original.
Advance needs to be freed up... or locked open. Retards timing for easier starting but at full advance once running.
Metal plate has to go in last before pressure plate.
Disks do look bad but they are not "abrasive" or anything. Like I said, making sure the thickness is in spec... even with new ones if you didn't buy original.
Advance needs to be freed up... or locked open. Retards timing for easier starting but at full advance once running.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
30 May 2021 15:33
#78
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- torqueflight
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Replied by torqueflight on topic 1974 DT125A Build/Restore
Just freed up the advance. No idea where in the advance it was stuck at. Was a major pain to break free. The 2 pieces were seized together on the shaft. Now its working.
I think the worm gear might be okay. The clutch level and shaft seem to move pretty freely. By abrasive I meant the clutch material and not the metal plates.
As far as "running lights", I mean there is no tail light, blinker and gauges that work as running lights. The headlight does go off and on with the switch. I would imagine by switching the head light, it would turn the gauge light and running lights on. All the lights do work though. Just not as running lights.
I think the worm gear might be okay. The clutch level and shaft seem to move pretty freely. By abrasive I meant the clutch material and not the metal plates.
As far as "running lights", I mean there is no tail light, blinker and gauges that work as running lights. The headlight does go off and on with the switch. I would imagine by switching the head light, it would turn the gauge light and running lights on. All the lights do work though. Just not as running lights.
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic 1974 DT125A Build/Restore
Worm gear could be okay but you still need to adjust the clutch properly and it looks like your adjuster is pretty rusted up.
Your comments on the lights are confusing. Turn signals are turn signals. Period. They flash when you move the switch signalling a turn. Otherwise they are off.
Gauge illumination lights are like 3 watts and should come on with headlight. You either might not be able to see them (they aren't very bright) or they are burned out or not connected. But you say they work. They either do or they don't. Sounds like they don't work to me.
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Taillight is similar. Comes on with headlight. It either does work or it doesn't. It's a two filament bulb so having a brake light doesn't mean the taillight part of the bulb is good or that the taillight circuit is connected.
You could have something disconnected in harness, likely in headlight bucket, bad switch, or bad bulbs. Should not be hard to track down.
Your comments on the lights are confusing. Turn signals are turn signals. Period. They flash when you move the switch signalling a turn. Otherwise they are off.
Gauge illumination lights are like 3 watts and should come on with headlight. You either might not be able to see them (they aren't very bright) or they are burned out or not connected. But you say they work. They either do or they don't. Sounds like they don't work to me.
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Taillight is similar. Comes on with headlight. It either does work or it doesn't. It's a two filament bulb so having a brake light doesn't mean the taillight part of the bulb is good or that the taillight circuit is connected.
You could have something disconnected in harness, likely in headlight bucket, bad switch, or bad bulbs. Should not be hard to track down.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
30 May 2021 16:38
#80
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