Thanks. That does help narrow it down. Ill check the rear light and gauge lights. 

Still trying to find a 175 top end. You guys know of anywhere else besides ebay?

Also I wanted a youtube where a guy had the 175 head modded to fit a yz80/yz85 F3 reed block. Would this be worth doing?

 

Oh and yeah...  I'm talking about the friction plates not being abrasive.  They are smooth.

I can't see your headlight switch in pictures very well but guessing it has an on-off and a hi-lo slider.  On sends power to the hi-lo slider right there inside the switch. Wires from the hi-lo (yellow and green) go down to headlight bucket to power hi and low beam (and hi beam indicator)

On also sends power to a blue wire that goes to the headlight bucket.  That blue wire in the headlight bucket connects to and powers the gauge illumination and taillight.  If blue wire out of switch doesn't have power when headlight switch is on, then no tail or gauge lights. 

I would have said this before but you said the switch was fine.  But I think you're "guessing" at a lot of stuff and don't really know.  There's really good troubleshooting in the manuals for many things too...  including switch maps etc.

Checked the bulb filament and contact at the gauge and rear tail light. Both good. 
 
 


Seen there was a blue wire at the tail light and where the switch was so Im guessing that could be it. 


I traced it to here. Not sure what this is, voltage regulator? I have 12v coming in from the battery but nothing coming out. 


As far as me guessing it works. IDK, when I switch the headlight one the headlight comes on, when I switch the low/high beam, they work. 
 

Nevermind, looks like thats the starter relay. 

Did you actually connect power to the bulbs and see if they worked?  Have you checked for power at the bulb sockets?  Just looking at a bulb will not tell you it's good. 

I tried to very clearly explain how the headlight switch works.  

Specifically that there is a BLUE wire coming out of the headlight switch into the headlight bucket that doesn't have anything to do with the hi lo beam.  No power to the BLUE wire out of the switch and no instrument lights or taillight.  It connects inside the headlight bucket.

I can also guarantee you did not "trace" the instrument light or taillight wire to the blue/white wire at the starter solenoid in your picture.  (I'm guessing you saw a sort of blue wire and figured it had to be it?)

This stuff is not that hard but you actually have to try... 

I think I've helped as much as I can.  Good luck getting everything working, don't forget to check the manuals, and/or hopefully someone better than me can help you figure things out.

Got it. Looks like it was never hooked up at all judging by the condition of the connector, it was smashed down and would just fall out. Looked under the head light bucket like you said and the blue wire was off. Its the wire to the right. 




Now I just need to figure out why its so spotty on the speedo side. (edit: fixed it)


Welp thats a couple nightmares dealt with today. Now just waiting for parts. 

Thanks for the help. 

Anyone have a recommendation on fork oil for someone thats 200lbs, or should I just stick with the stock rating?

One thing I figured out for locating the tabs on the metal clutch plates is to just line up the 5 tabs to each of the 5 bolt holes on the hub for the pressure plate. There's 5 plates and 5 holes for the pressure plate so it has to come out even and no need to figure how many degrees apart you're putting them. So if you set the hubs bolt pattern so one bolt hole is at 12 o'clock and line a tab up with it, put the friction on then put the next plates tab over the next hole clockwise then another friction and so forth. Both my 74 360 and 74 125 have the tabs so I'm pretty sure they were using them at that time. 

Brilliant solution Dave.  I'll have to remember that one...  5 discs, 5 screws.

And you're probably right about the tabs...  for some reason I thought they came out with those closer to 1976 but I could easily be wrong.