Well, to start, the shift lever is immaculately clean!

The gearing is stock, I checked it, 14/45. Also I noticed for the 1976 model they went up to a 15, which makes sense. 

Been looking for a 175 top end but its hard to find the head and the jug at the same time. Hell if the 250, 360 or 400 motor would fit Id do that too. 

I only had half a block worth of rip but 1st gear seemed useless it was so low. 

It would be nice to be able to cruise this thing at 60mph or else its really gonna limit where this thing can go. Didnt ride it long enough to find out, but I guess we shall see. 

Does anyone know if a 250 engine will bolt right in? I actually might do that.

Got the bike fully up and running decent now, but the clutch is slipping pretty bad when it comes on pipe. I just have plain old valvoline 10-30. Anyone know if this is bad for clutches? Side note, the clutch is adjusted all the way in at the lever. 

Also anyone know where to start for running lights? The headlight works but I do have running lights for tail light, blinkers and gauges. 

If its slipping its not because of oil but either the operating actuator worm is dry & sticking & holding pressure on the clutch rod, or adjustment is set with no free play. But my guess is it needs more spring pressure or new fiber plates plus leave out those pesky rubber rings between all the plates. Ignore my rambling if ya way ahead of me as not read back to the story right now.

Ill try and mess with all of those. The clutch pack was frozen badly. It took me riding it quite a bit to break it free. I guess Ill pull it apart and see whats the deal. 

As a side note, you can hear the clutch fully engage after a couple seconds between shifts, so I guess it could be hanging up, ie worm drive. 

Pulled the clutch pack. Was lucky enough to not strip the phillips. 
The clutch material is still super think but Im able to scratch the surface off with my finger nail, which is probably bad. 

Going to order new plates and abrassives. 

Anyone know off had how many teeth the tabs on the plates should be spaced out? I didnt pay attention as I pulled it out. 

Thanks

Nevermind on the clutch plates, they are like $15 each. Only getting the friction plates. 

Yep just frictions. They get glazed up then its down hill from there. Give the steels a scratch with some emery cloth wouldn't hurt' Leave out the rings if still fitted. Number 7 of which there should be 5.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1974/dt125a/clutch

If you're talking "tabs" on the steels, first one straight up, rotate next one 60 degrees and then keep rotating 60 degrees as you go.

It's in the manual.