Thanks Dave, Ill have a look. I have the old filter/cage but the filter is super nasty. 

For tire info, check this thread:
yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/gene...-tire-thread?start=0
Otherwise, just search tires, and you may find more info in other individual threads.
In general its a good idea to do a lot of searching on your own; you'll find that many of your questions have been answered already, and the info is right at your fingertips. For example, what transmission fluid to use. Then if you can't find what you are looking for, or if there's something incomplete or something that you don't understand, then ask away.

Also, there is always an abundant selection of used Yamaha Enduro forks on ebay. Sometimes you can find a good set, or you might determine which is bent on your, and you can buy a set where that one is straight. The 72/73 forks will fit the triple tree, but the brake hub is different and needs to be matched, if you are wanting to go with the 'newer' aluminum lowers. Probably need the 72/73 front fender as well, and you can expect to pay dearly for one of those on ebay. There is a place producing plastic forks; someone will come on about that. Maybe this place? www.dcvmx.com/xcart/home.php?cat=1074
And there is a place which will make you a new metal set; again, expect to pay for those. Franks Forks it's called. franksforks.com/

If the forks are just twisted in the clamps you can just loosen the clamp bolts enough to skid & twist them back with wheel between you knees. Or loosen then a bit more so quite free & give the clamps a left-right on the handle bars with wheel between knees & see if they settle straight ahead. Mind you the forks will sneak up through the clamps so if you can support it on a box so front wheel is lightly on the floor you'll not have that to worry about. If they're definitely bent then can press them straight. I have an old press i made out of a 20 ton bottle jack that does the job ok. I don't dismantle to straighten just support both ends & roll i around to the high point & block of wood between jack & tube. Takes a bit of practice--"had about 58 years practice lol" but had better gear at work than what i now have. With fork rust i just spin them up in the lathe & strop them up with "not too coarse" emery cloth then wipe oil over them & if ugly all the way just put for boots on so you can't see it. Spinning complete in the lathe can be a problem & dangerous if they're bent though & need to be perfect straight or go slowly or not at all & just strop them up by hand on the bench. Check axle for straight too. Depending what your long term aim is but i guess right now it's just get it going to evaluate.

Thank you for the fork info. I will give it a shot. 

Im also curious to find out what the crusing speed like is on the  DT125. Not that I expect freeway speed. Also how far can one of these go on a tank? 

Thanks 

Easily over a hundred miles. I was riding a 75 DT125B, and in ride with a bunch of the guys here from the website (maybe somewhere in Utah? Mohab?) We had gone 92 miles, and I still hadn't hit reserve...

Thats awesome. So far enough I can go up on angeles crest and back. Whats top crusing speed without reallying windong it out? 55mph?

Its really good to see an original bike like that. I think you hit the jackpot and only 420 miles. It is RARE to find these bikes with the factory equipment still on them, like turn signals. 

Note the ign key has 4 tumblers in it that match the seat lock.  Those tumblers can be changed to any key combo.  They do somewhat freeze internally and once in a whle need lube, but if disassembled can be polished, oiled and almost good as new.  There should be a lock number on the key face.  Does it match the seat lock? If not, someone may have swapped it out. 







 

Yeah, its awesome. Was super happy that it was almost all there. I plan on leaving it just like it is and only replace the stuff thats missing or really needs it. I might not even clean the dirt off it. 

The key number on the ign and seat are marked the same. I have a key coming off ebay. Im hoping the gas cap is the same key. It didnt have a number on it. I tried pulling the pin to get the cap off but it wouldnt come off. 

Just went out to have a look at the forks and was able to twist them enough to get it straight enough. So I guess they will be fine for now. Will probably replace the oil in them when I can. Also going to replace the rear shock oil and I may add a space in between the spring to get a little more preload out of it, ill have a look at it when I get it running and see how it handles. 

Once I get going on it, Ill try and add photos of the work. 

I shoulda mentioned, to confirm straight or bent, loosen clamps on one fork at a time & revolve it via the top cap hex. You'll soon see if bent. & if they both are bent evenly but not too much, you can set them both the same either pointing back slightly or forward, whichever you think is best. Sit a box under it with wheel off the ground. That way just doing one at a time they'll sit topped out but not drop through because other side is still clamped tight. On our old--very old--MX bikes doing crazy jumps & hard landings we'd turn them back half a turn after every meeting lol as would bend forward.