Here are a couple of kill switches on eBay, not mine 
 
 

I have a kill button for you. Brand new $45. Steve

@Rsteve, is it a reproduction or NOS?
@Lizeec, that's' great you found that, I used the part number, description, searching in different ways, using different combination of keywords and only come up with one that had the high cost to it. I can find new ones all day, but to find one to replicate what I have... my hat's off to you.

A little more progress today. The clutch friction plates and discs came in from DC plastics. Quite impressed with the aftermarket product they sent Everything is identical to the originals but the tabs of the friction rings that engage the fingers of the basket are much thicker than the originals. That should keep the tabs from making dents in the sides of the fingers. The basket had some fairly deep ones that I filed out a while back, so this will help with the longevity.

Now that I feel the transmission will not require me to take everything back apart, I torqued down the clutch and primary drive nuts. Oiled the clutch plates and friction plates up in a ziplock bag and set everything in the clutch basket, with the new springs and a drop of blue thread locker on each of the screws holding the clutch together. To top it all off.... one of the moments I have long awaited for, the placement and tightening down of the side cover. A major milestone for me.

  

I know you see one bottom end assembly, you seen them all, but I really been wanting this to get to this point for some time now.
The green tape on the sprocket it what I used to make a mark on so I could keep track of how many revolutions the countershaft made compared to the input shaft so I could confirm the trans was shifting proper. I left the tape on so it serves as a reminder to tighten up the sprocket nut.

Made by the same company that manufactured them for Yamaha in the 70's. Identical.

That will definitely work. I will go for it. Thanks a bunch.

Been a while again. Progress has been slow but with the help of some of the guys here I have been able to  keep things moving. I ordered the kill switch from rsteve56 through ebay, it is truly identical in everyway to the original. I had a new seat cover in hand for a while now but half of the grip teeth that hold the cover on were rusted beyond use. I posted my need for the clips on Facebook as well and a guy posted pics of what he made with his own stamp and die by hand. Pretty much an exact duplicate of the original. Price wasn't too bad, got them and installed them, got the seat cover on, looks pretty good.

  

Got the cylinder washed up and oiled since I had not touched it when I got it back from the machine shop a while back. I got all the parts together including  new wrist pin that was supposed to fit according to ebay, but it didn't. So waiting for the one that will fit later this week.

Got a new chain. The original one that I was going to use that I cleaned up with gas to get all the crud off did just that and allowed me to se a cracked link that was not going to hold, so new chain it is.

Got the rear wheel on. New brake pads, new bearings, and new left side seal. Was going to reuse the original bearings but I learned a hard lesson... do not flush out the old grease without drying and repacking right away. I placed the bearings in a sealed zip lock bag and they still rusted. Oh well, that won't happen again. I posted a question in the General Enduro Questions about how the axle and swing arm seems to have "extra space"... curious why and if it should be a concern.

Still waiting on a rubber part from Sumo rubber for the carb start lever, the original swelled up real good when I did the wintergreen boil on some of my rubber parts. Actually all of them swelled up real good Carb to air box boot and the seal that was replaced in the rear wheel mentioned earlier and the rubber button on the original kill switch. That was a real bummer to see... All other parts that got screwed up are in hand and some in place.

 

Again, 'till next time....

Coming along great...  love the seat work...  excellent job! 

The latest

I will start with the not so latest, with the last post I fabricated a new air filter cage. A local hardware store that carries EVERYTHING, I mean EVERYTHING, had stainless steel netting, strong enough to withstand the compression of the tightening screw that holds the air filter in place. I had also stumbled upon an edging to use around the perimeter so the filter media would not get tore up by the bare wires.  With the old filter cage, I noticed the holding screw/bolt was running about out of thread when I everything tightened up. I also noticed that the cage wanted to move forward and tip a little due to the angles the original had been made by. This was the incentive I had for making a hopefully “improved” version, one that would stay centered made with slightly different angles, slightly larger since the original cage held the cap and base ridges rather tightly with barely any room for the media. And taller so I would not spend a long time cranking the crew in. Also, with the increase in size albeit a small one, more surface area for filtering. The edging was pulled out of the trash at the site where I am currently working at, but I didn’t know if it would withstand the oil used on the filter, so I set it is a bit of gas for 3 days, it did very well. Using a paper bag to make a temple of the old filter, I made a slightly larger version with the SS screen and pop riveted it together carefully checking the alignment with the base and the cap. Set the edging in place and used my heat gun to fuse the plastic together at the ends and through the mesh in various locations. It worked really well. Soaked the UNI filter media that was on the other cage that I ordered online and nowhere near fit in the air box but conformed to my new cage just fine since it is stuffed through the inside and wrapped over the outside with the edges butting each other. Set it all in place, screwed down really well with no tipping. That’s done!!

  

Now onto the latest The remaining parts arrived a while back, the seal for the starter lever, and the proper wrist bearing for the piston. Got them installed today and the cylinder on. Before this I called the machine shop to ask for pointers on installing the wrist pin retainer since one side, I installed on the bench was a real pain, I figured I better get some insight on getting the other side on in a not so easy setting as the benchtop was. I also asked him about setting the jug over the piston, He said he tilted the jug to the intake side and rolled onto the piston. The first time I did that, it dropped on so easy. He did warn me that since I have a reed valve cylinder, sometimes the rings will pop out into the port, and it takes a stick or something to poke them back in so the jug will slide down. You may note I said first time. I got the jug down, started taking out the stuffing rag I had around the connecting rod and realized I did not set the bottom gasket! So, back off it comes. Got the gasket in place, set the jug over the piston like before, slides down and stops…. The ring popped out. I had no idea which way to turn, I could not cross my arms over the other to get my fingers in there to push in the rings, they were hanging up on the pin in the piston. I should have removed it and started again but I turned the piston ever so gently left and right and the jug dropped the rest of the way down….Thank you Lord!!  Got everything torqued down. Cylinder, cylinder head and the spark plug that I bought decades ago. Moved onto setting the reeds in place, since the prior owner had a mix of washers o the bolts, I checked a few of the parts pictures to see just what was supposed to be there. Just a lock washer and on one bolt, a strap to hold the CDI wiring harness heading to the other connectors. Well I don’t have the strap, I will get one for it, got the bolts set with the lock washers only and set them in place.

 

  

 



Just a mention, when I was looking at the pic of the cylinder for the washers for the reed body, I noticed that the four bolts that hold the cylinder down had washers in the pic too. I did not remove washers from the cylinder, just the head, so that is the way it went back on. This all happened just before I seen the pc with the washers. So I am going to let it be. When I clean the bike up, perhaps I will add them at that time. Started working on the gas tank, in particular the petcock. Looking at the gasket inside the nut, it looked like it needed replacing. I thought the nut was a captured nut and was supposed to free spin in the petcock body….. NOT!    I ended up removing it, It is a different thread that the tank side, it made it easy to clean up. I started looking for the gasket in the parts list, no such thing. I really do not want to buy a new petcock. I really need just the O ring if that is what it is. So how to find that???

Getting really close to firing it up, if it will. Getting excited!

That's all for now, until next time.

You've been busy but gosh i won't mention the rings popping out--you must be happy they got back in without damage, so i'm thinking they just got snagged as the cylinder started to pass over the top ring & you saved it [he says hopefully]. Not an easy job, even after doing it for the best part of 60 years lol.