Hello friends,
    I've come up with a new dilema! Tried for days to get a broken stud out of the exhaust and could not get it out no matter what we tried. So, I bought a used DT360 jug, gaskets to replace the jug. Now, I do understand I have to measure the jug for my piston but I thought I'd ask the Enduro experts here what suggestions I might want to do to make it a successful exchange. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated...thank you...

Welcome, i guess the question is does your piston fit the jug & if so--how much clearance does it have. I'd just slide the piston in from the bottom untill ther skirt is in plus a little & minus rings & see what feeler blade fits in between skirt & cylinder. Easy initial check to see if ya in the ball park but if your clearance there is as little as 2thou or 0.05mm you'll be more than good. That's all without getting too technicaly worried at the moment.

i've had some bad broken studs to remove but have --so far-- a fail safe method where i arc weld a plate with hole a bit bigger that the broken stud & give it a good squirt with suitable rod & never fails to screw out. Ok, that's on a good day & not always that easy. In your case maybe take it to a competant tig welder to tig something to it as tig is more controlabe. Heat from welding will loosen it plus the plate to then turn it out. Does'nt matter if the alloy is compromised around it--noone gonna see it & i won't tell lol. Ps, i see ya not exactly new but anyway--welcome back.
Randomly googling & here's an excellent method using controlable tig to build up to the surface then tig on a bolt to turn--anything to turn, washer etc. I wish i had a tig after watching that. With yours it wouldn't matter if you had to drill the alloy away on top of your recessed broken stud to make it more accesable to weld onto. Just thinking back 50 years i guess yours has those "alway fail" 6mm studs stepping up to 8mm on the outside. Why the $%$% they used those i'll never know. But if that's the case & you 'do' get it out then tap it to 8mm for a normal stud.,

Thanks for the reply. I do have a Primeweld 225 tig machine but it's not very mobile so unless I took the jug off, it would be most difficult for me to tig. We did try migging a nut on the end of it but both times it broke off. I agree TIG has better prenatration! And lastly my son tried drilling out more and got more aluminum drilled than the stud! So, that's the reason for me getting another jug. I'll just take the rings off and see how much ring gap I have in the newer jug. I was wondering if I should hone the cylinder and get a new set of rings but won't know until I get measurements...

 

Thanks for the reply. Please keep us updated when you can. I edited my post there a couple of time. Till later. Cheers. ps, thought maybe had the cylinder off & yes easier to get at for sure.

Does anyone know if the head and jug can be removed without removing the engine from the frame?

I have had mine off several times in last month for "testing".


To remove, simply remove tank and exhaust first. Tank has 17mm nut.  Note: 13 mm on head, 13mm under the seat holding center of exhaust, 2 - 10mm caps nuts holding muffler on.  Leave decompression valve on and remove to transfer after cylinder off of engine, 17mm also.

There are 6 nuts for the head, 13mm. There are 6 jug sleeved nuts, 13mm. I usually torque the jug on at 25 ft-lbs and the head at 15 ftlbs.

HINT: I use a stemmed (example) magnet to pull washers and nuts out.