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Makotosun
1972 Yamaha CT2 175 - clutch push screw
- 78dave
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1972 Yamaha CT2 175 - clutch push screw was created by 78dave
Gentlemen again I defer to the experts here. See the pictures I posted. When I pulled the clutch cover off, specifically the drive gear cover it was totally caked with grease. Perhaps I know why as I pulled the clutch screw housing the seal was loose. So how the heck do you change that seal? The end of the shaft is flanged so it does not come off. Note seal is number 23 in the schematic. Image 7262 shows the end being flanged so the part does not come apart. Does one bend that flange open to get to the seal the peen it back? As always appreciate your help
Dave
Dave
28 Jan 2026 13:06
#1
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- Schu
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Replied by Schu on topic 1972 Yamaha CT2 175 - clutch push screw
This shows how I disassembled the push screw on my JT which I believe is a similar arrangement as your CT. The push screw was cracked on mine, but the seal was ok.
yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/mini...disassemble-from-arm
yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/mini...disassemble-from-arm
Schu
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, CT2, RT3, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B, DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, CT2, RT3, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B, DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
28 Jan 2026 15:00
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic 1972 Yamaha CT2 175 - clutch push screw
You can turn the plastic part clockwise to send the actuator & arm out the other side.
But trouble 'is' then to replace the seal the arm needs drilling off the actuator.
I'd just leave it keep the actuator greased.
Turn the plastic piece back on & turn it hard anticlock to pull the seal right home then line up the screw holes & you'll be good. Earlier like my AT1 1970 had it all running in the case so more of a problem.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1972/ct2/clutch
But trouble 'is' then to replace the seal the arm needs drilling off the actuator.
I'd just leave it keep the actuator greased.
Turn the plastic piece back on & turn it hard anticlock to pull the seal right home then line up the screw holes & you'll be good. Earlier like my AT1 1970 had it all running in the case so more of a problem.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1972/ct2/clutch
28 Jan 2026 15:55
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic 1972 Yamaha CT2 175 - clutch push screw
Grease is likely from years of the chain throwing off lube, not from the clutch actuator.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
28 Jan 2026 22:07
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- 78dave
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Replied by 78dave on topic 1972 Yamaha CT2 175 - clutch push screw
Ok just to be sure since my setup looks different. Build a puller with a long bolt through the plastic gear using something that goes around the gear and against the back of the lever and then pull the swag through the hole. Then install a new seal and push the swag back and peen it. So the opening of the lever is not round but rather rectangular to keep the lever from slipping after I swag it back?
29 Jan 2026 14:14
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic 1972 Yamaha CT2 175 - clutch push screw
I seriously doubt your plan will work but never tried it.
I've always drilled or ground off the peening holding the lever on and replaced the gear and sometimes the lever. The new gear gets peened to hold the lever on. Welding might work except the one time I tried carefully tack welding the new seal was still destroyed by the heat. Kind of defeated the whole thing.
www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/241-16341-01-00
Unless something is really wrong with the gear, these days I just clean out old grease, re-grease and assemble. Works great even if seal not perfect. Not that hard to clean and re-grease every year or two.
I've always drilled or ground off the peening holding the lever on and replaced the gear and sometimes the lever. The new gear gets peened to hold the lever on. Welding might work except the one time I tried carefully tack welding the new seal was still destroyed by the heat. Kind of defeated the whole thing.
www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/241-16341-01-00
Unless something is really wrong with the gear, these days I just clean out old grease, re-grease and assemble. Works great even if seal not perfect. Not that hard to clean and re-grease every year or two.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
29 Jan 2026 14:55
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