TI #1:
This link should be for those special-application tools you gear-heads have made up to get the job done. I know there are some great minds out there, so what say you?

Here is one item I came up with, when faced with reluctant dampening rods in a set of 1971 vintage DT/RT forks. Using an Allen wrench to remove the rods just caused them to break loose & turn inside the tube. Using an air ratchet @ about 120 PSI helped but then both dampers began to spin. I tried a long piece of wood to press against the head of the damper(s) but it wouldn't hold. Finally I got a 15mm 6-point deep socket & ground away four of the six sides with a Dremel using a ball grinding bit. About the time the bit was done for, it was finished. The modified socket now fits nicely over the end of the damper (pictured) when attached to a 24 inch extension & breaker-bar to secure it. I may someday make another for the smaller damper found in the AT/CT forks as well. Earlier HT/LT/AT/CT fork dampers have a cap similar to the one pictured for the DT/RTs. You can modify a 12mm 3/8 drive socket to hold these fork dampers.

Sprocket shaft holder. Some guy made this to hold the sprocket shaft on his DT1. The nice long handle will keep the shaft from moving when either held or pinned to the ground. Makes a nice "equalizer", too!

AT1 Armature removal tool. This was made by modifying a slide hammer (rod) by turning down & re-threading the end with a 10mm die. However, I needed a different pitch to remove the armature. So, cut the nut off a cylinder head bolt, drilled it out about half the length, and with a tap threaded it to match the end of the rod. This steel is very hard, and it took over 20 minutes to thread the bolt one inch or so. Since the other end of the head bolt was already threaded for 10 x 1.25mm, I screwed in a spare cylinder head rod of the same dimension, and it was ready to go. This also preserved the original threads I had on the slide hammer rod. In case I needed to use it in the future, all I need do is remove the extension. The armature came out nicely with only a slam or two. Yamaha also offered such a tool back in the day.

Otherwise, one could use a long engine mounting bolt (either of the two rear bolts used to mount motor to frame). They are already 10 x 1.25mm and just need about one-half inch of the first threads turned down to a smooth shaft. Then the bolt (which is about 4.5 inches long) can be used like a magneto puller.

IT #2

Once upon a time there was a wheel-bearng removal tool which Yamaha provided. This consisted of a "J" shaped metal rod with a steel handle. The tip of the "J" was slightly reduced in diameter compared to that of the rod proper. This tool is pictured in most Enduro service manuals of the early 1970s. In the wheel hub, sandwiched between the bearings, is a metal tube ("bearing spacer"). The inside diameter of the rear wheel spacer is about .875 inch & the front wheel spacer .475 inch (AT/CT). Located in the center of the spacers is a hole about .300 inch in diameter. In order to remove the bearings, the "J" end of the rod must be slid down into the axle shaft until the tip drops into the hole. Using a hammer you then beat on the handle end, which should eventually knock out the oil seal/bearing/bearing spacer. Once this is done you can use a heavy steel rod to knock/press out the other seal/bearing. There is also a sheet-steel washer (flange-spacer) inside, so ensure not to damage it in the removal process. I think it may be easier to remove the smaller bearing first (rear wheel). The bearing removal tool & steel drifts should be long enough to also work on the DTs & RTs as well.

Specifications on the examples pictured are:
1. Steel rod measured .255 inches in diameter X 11 inches in length.
2. Heavy/removable brass handle measured 1.300 inch in diameter X 4 inches long. A hole was drilled in the center 3 inches deep to accept the rod shaft.
3. A piece of heavy galvanized steel pipe measuring .835 inches in diameter x 8 inches in length made for a good punch to either press or hammer out the second bearing/seal on the rear wheel. It will clear the "flange-spacer" easily. A second drift measuring .690 in diameter X 5 inches in length will work fine for removing the remaining second bearing of the front wheel hub.
4. The "J" tip of the rod was made by heating the rod to red-hot & bending in a vice. You must have either a gradual or sharp bend to the tip so after cutting & grinding to the proper length, the elbow will be able to clear the axle shaft & seat into the hole. If the "J"-rod will seat in the rear wheel it should also work for the front, since though the spacer diameter is smaller, it is not as long. After making the rod fit then heat elbow to red & quench in oil.