Greetings all,
    I finally have the 360 Enduro running but I noticed today that the carburetor over-flow tube is leaking gas...(a lot!) So, I'm gonna have to tear into the carburetor to see what's going on. When I originally had the carburetor apart, I noticed the bowl had two separated floats that float on pins. Not sure what to do here but I'll be looking into my manual to see how to rebuild it. Does anyone out there have a good sourse for carburetor rebuild kits? I did notice they have some on EBay but I'm not sure how good they might be. 

You wont be able to find any kit's that are worth a darn, go to the link below, niche cycle, to find the parts you need.  Those two separate floats is normal, just make sure they will float in water to ensure they are good.  You will be looking for the needle and seat. 

Niche cycle

I have rebuilt about 3 of those in the last 6 months, including the one on my bike. Generally speaking, you get overflow when the inlet valve doesn't seal properly or maybe debris needs removal. Sometimes, even when rebuilt and clean, floats will hang when bowl is dry. Just gently tap the side of the bowl with screw driver handle. Float adjustment may also be needed. That spring on the inlet valve should be smooth. If not, it may hang open.

CLEAN IT:
1. Take it apart and clean it well. Soak it, ultrasonic, whatever you got. Blow air or carb cleaner or both through the ports. The small port in the venturi behind slide (on engine side), blow from inside venturi if you can. Do this after if has been soaked or cleaned and all components removed. In particular, blow from the inlet valve side outside with air. That port gets clogged up.

REPLACE NECESSARY PARTS:
Replace INLET VALVE and O-RING as part of the rebuild if you haven't already. Failed O-RING = effect of having a huge main jet, very choppy rich mixture like choke is on.

ADJUST FLOATS: 17.3 +/- 2.5mm. Do this by inverted carb and measuring distance from gasket surface to tang surface.

NEEDLE: Set to 3.

JETS: 180/50. I remove mine to ultrasonic clean them and ports they are in. HOWEVER, that idle jet can be difficult at times to remove. A hot air gun can help. The idle jet is inside the bowl. The main jet is the one screwed in from the bottom, outside of bowl. Its a 12mm and I think the main jet screwed to it is a 6mm. DO NOT over tighten the jet. Clean this main jet port well.

IDLE AIR SCREW: Set to 1 & 1/2 turns out.

NEEDLE JET: can be tapped out GENTLY noting there is a ball that guides installation. Verify jet and needle in ok shape.

SLIDE: Cut out always goes towards air cleaner on installation. No forcing this please.

CHOKE: Remove choke and carefully note how it is installed. Clean plunger and port and reinstall.

FLOATS: Clean pin paths through floats. May sure floats float and carefully smooth pins. NOTE, the side that says "UP" on floats. If you look carefully, you can see marks on float pins regarding previous install direction.


Hope this helps!

Thank you for all the input...I have a kit coming...

The overfill tube on my carburetor for my MX250 was split and created a problem. I was able to solder it but now I have another issue with my carburetor that I need to remedy. That'll be in another post.
imgur.com/a/Qlk2UFf

We've seen this reported a few times now. Sure would like to know what could cause this.

Seeing that split brass tube reminded me of the KZ1000 carb problem I had. 3 of the 4 carbs had this issue, but not to the extent yours has (had?).
The solution for me was to obtain some brass tubing the same size as the ID of the brass tube in the float bowl and gently insert it up the split tube. Mixed up a bit of JB Weld and dabbed a bit of it around the last bit of the new tubing to seal it up. Made sure the new tube was actually clear and let things dry before assembling.

Got the tubing online (eBay I think?)

Did this 7 years ago and it has been just fine.

I managed to repair mine with some silver solder through much trial and tribulation. It did work very well. Thing was that I think something else developed in the way of the problems. My motorcycle ran for a while and when I was out on the trail one time, it just decided that it didn't want to run anymore. Haven't been able to figure it out yet because I also took the opportunity to strip everything down to bare and paint everything new, polish up all the aluminum, and get it looking like mild restoration that it is now.
i.imgur.com/6eLaxgA.jpg
imgur.com/WlU1ue5
i.imgur.com/XexAVZZ.jpg

I had a post a couple of years back journaling the original rebuild of getting the motorcycle running after sitting for 35 years. That post disappeared because of some hiccup and then I think it was brought back again. I needed to dig it back out and add to it or maybe just start a new one with this restoration that I'm going through now. When that post disappeared it left a bad taste in my mouth because well I didn't know what was going to happen with a new post since I wasn't that active of a member... 

Someone else posted on this issue quite some time ago . As I recall their idea was
of a similar nature to NHSteve's approach , but they used a brass sleeve over the 
split pipe . Either way achieves the same result . The replacement pipe options might 
determine which was the easier option .