Hardening steel requires the metal to reach, at minimum, red hot temperatures. Temperatures above the melting point of most aluminum alloys. Also, the "cool mist" of fuel would ignite in the presence of a red hot side electrode... well before the carefully timed spark. (This is called "preignition".) The spark itself? Flea power in term of relative heat production. Again, if you are getting the side electrode up to hardening temperatures, you have a lot more problems to worry about than possibly hardening the side electrode.

As far as carbon not burning off the top of the piston? Correct because under normal conditions the temperature of the piston doesn't get up to the temperatures required to harden steel or burn off carbon.

But as far as carbon not burning off? Sell that idea to the thousands of people who have used a torch or even a barbeque to clean years of carbon out of the exhaust system. At "heat treat" temperatures, carbon does burn off.

I get it. You are afraid to re-gap a used plug because of a blog you read on the Internet (and are trying to "prove" what your read with "facts" that really don't apply.)

I'm not trying to change your mind. Believe what you want.

Back to the original poster's problem... one thought that comes to mind is the possibility of "counterfeit" NGK spark plugs. They are out there. I hope we get to see a picture of the plugs that are fouling.

Oddly enough I have never tried to burn carbon off my grill so thanks for the tip I was tired of scraping it
carbons melting temp is around 10,000 deg..lol but will turn into gas at a lower temp,4000 deg...yea.
But yea plugs do indeed get 1500 deg and I have seen some that had melted. Even seen some the ceramic had melted.

NGK has fought for years with quenching of the electrode and I thought this was the problem.I suppose it is not the same thing.It's all good I have been wrong before and may be wrong again because I read "something on the internet"

The spark plugs i generally use from 2 different seller with no difference in the result

Spark plug cap, now that i look at it up close im wondering, is it really the original ?


Tried to start the bike and it started and died. Checked and no spark. I scraped some carbon on the sides to see if it would jump to the side to make sure that the spark plug wasnt working and that it wasnt only because its not really clean. Last time i checked it it looked better than this. It ran about 3 hours with this plug before she went.


Managed to find the old plug the bike came with... It was laying in the bottom of my dirty toolbox so keep that in mind, it was probably not that dirty when i put it in there
its a BPR6ES ?!?

Another plug i tried. Cant manage to find the Bosh i tried as well.
Champion RN2C

get rid of the resistor plugs and cap,screw the fcc.they mandated resistor plugs,you dont need them with points.
champions are trash put the ngk b7es back in it

This is not a solid test because the bike didnt run for days before i tried to start it.
Today i cranked it once and it started, well it fired, and then on the next kick no life so i checked and i had no spark.
It had spark when i put it there because i parked it on its own power.
If i have a chance tomorow im going to install a new plug and run it until she dies and take pictures as soon as she dies.

So it is a resistor cap ?

If those are counterfeits they look pretty good. The ones I saw had the printing crooked on the porcelain.

On the new NGK plugs does one of the flats on the hex part have a small lot number stamped into it? All "real" NGK's have this feature.

All the NGK plugs in the pictures have the stamp you are talking about. Ive just checked and they do have it. But the numbers and letters change from 1 plug to the other. Im guessing thats normal.