Oh and you wouldn't be the first guy to chase a stalling problem for months only to find out it was something simple like a plugged cap vent.  But usually that's more of a "running out of gas" symptom and not super sudden.  But then again, your idea of "sudden" might not be the same as mine.

Engine is stock which is why im trying to get the carb back to stock assuming that even is the stock carb. I saw the ID last time i had the carb off, ill have to jot it down and do some checking. When im through trying whats been suggested ill get back on here to post my findings. One way or another shes going to run how shes supposed to.

You said earlier you have a 230 main jet installed but thought 150 was std .
That is WRONG . Stock on a RT3 is #220 and with your pod filter #230 is quite likely to be
close to right . Using a # 150 would be very risky . Even the DT3 used a #160 .
I second Marks recommendation to check your needle jet is correct too .
The stock needle is available from Niche Cycle , I bought one earlier in the year .

AH that blasted diagram got me once again! I use babbitts and was reading the parts listings off to the side and wasnt paying close enough attention to the little table at the bottom of the image that has both DT and RT's listed. If i had a penny for every time that's happened, its very late/early my bad fellas . Good catch swoop! not to dispute but I think you meant stock is #230 not #220 swoop? According to the service manual table it is unless im reading something wrong again? Just tryin to get this thing right once and for all.

Figured id give a quick update on where this carb is at. Pilot jet is a #45. The washer that goes under the setter/needle jet is in fact gone and i see no numbers stamped anywhere on the setter. Float level has been adjusted but i did leave it just a hair on the rich side. The float arms were not quite even and now they are. Not sure how big of a deal this is but my neighbor pointed out that he thinks the nozzle is facing the wrong direction.I checked on a couple 250 carbs i have and they all point towards the reeds. Last thing is carb identification. I took a quick pic of the number stamped on it but im out of time to dive into identifying it right now.
 
 
 

that primary choke/emulsifier tube to needs to be aligned correctly and the washer needs to be in place to hold it correctly.
there is supposed to be a small locating pin inside the bore that the tube goes in that locates it in the correct orientation.
it looks like maybe your tube might be damaged and jammed in there wrong.

other people mentioned this but I thought I'd say it again.
your engine is NOT stock at all unless you have the factory air filter and factory exhaust muffler and baffle in place.

from what you described it sounds like your bike might be flooding out so I would set the float height even leaner and take a close look at that float valve and make sure it's not overflowing into the carb at idle and low engine speeds, after you fix the needle jet of course

I wouldn't expect to see any numbers stamped on the jet setter.

I would say that it is the correct carb (308 = model code for RT2).

I've got a couple of carbs next to me at the moment and on both the cut away portion of the main nozzle faces the engine. 

The jet setter is not a calibrated part so no number as Alan said.  The part it threads into and is not aligned properly has numbers on it which you'll see when you remove it from carb body.  Surprising it runs at all that way.  Washer is critical too.

You could be right with the main jet size . My original post was sourcing US market RT2
parts book for info . A US workshop manual stated # 230 as std , so a variation there .
That's not completely unusual , but the flow difference between the two is only slight .

Yamaha had jetting revisions for this bike.  So both may be correct but latest revision should be "best" if starting from scratch.  As long as all parts are swapped...  not one jet from this revision and another jet from a different revision.