Your needle is incorrect for the stock RT3 setup . The correct needle is a 6DH3 .
The stock RT3 components are designed to work with the stock airbox however .
I suspect your pod filter would require some richening up over stock settings .

It might not be relevant, but I'd observe that the 1972/1973 bikes didn't have the cable holders with the elbow joint at the carb top - they were fitted to the 1974 models.

Thats been my biggest wonder is are any of these jets stock? As you pointed out swoop the needle is not so i guess ill have to find one of those. Im going to try adjusting the needle height to the leanest setting first and probably adjust the float to make it more clean and go from there.
As for that air filter i dont think i can use a stock air box because the motor is a 73 RT360 on a 69DT250 frame. Not sure if they would interchange or not and this is more of a "rat bike" for the time being. Ive tried it before in the past with no filter and it still does the same thing. I can make that pod filter work, no worries there.

I never thought of the air filter & just looking i have one that size on my LS3 100 single so a 360 might suck rich on full song. Just try it without the filter being careful that dirt--or low flying ducks--don't get sucked in, to prove a point.

sorry, was replying to page 3 not realizing it went to page 4.

Those small hard cap pods are horrible for carburetion on many two strokes.  Can make it impossible to jet.

I guess it wouldnt hurt to try it without the filter again. Ill try that first and if nothing really changes then ill adjust needle height and depending on that will determine what i should do with the float. And lets not forget that i do not have the correct needle, trying to find the right one is probably like trying to find a needle in a hay stack lol

Air filter won't make it stop suddenly. Unless maybe a small bird is flying by and gets sucked in. 

Nor will the needle.  And you need to make sure carb is correct and ALL the jets are stock, not just a part here and there.  RT325 has given you some great advice, I'd follow it. 

True, true im working on it. Im one of those guys who has to know what the exact problem is especially with this bike, its been over a 2 year battle with her!. The needle valve set is stock #2 in the diagram 3.3. The main jet is throwing me off (#8 in diagram). Mine is a #230 however the STD is supposed to be a #150. Whats got me confused is i dont know what the U.R.U.RSTD means? Im confident to say that this here is a problem that ill need to fix. I did not get a pic of the pilot jet so at the moment that size is unknown but i will as soon as i rip into it again.

If I remember right you are working with a modified bike.  Just that air filter is a decent difference and it sounds like you don't even know what carb you have?  It's not that hard to look for the ID stamp and if you don't have one then it's probably a non-stock carb.   

None of that matters.  You jet it by what it needs.  Not some numbers in a book for a stock bike when you don't have a stock bike.  Swapping mains or needles without taking the needle jet (aka main nozzle) into account could be a quick way to an expensive seizure.

U.R. is explained in the parts books.  Simply means "use as required".  As in you modify your bike, move to a different altitude, whatever...  then you use the jet the bike needs. But first you need to do the basics like float level.  Then read Mikuni manual and follow the jetting steps.  It's not that hard.  You just need to trust the process and follow the steps instead of jumping all over the place. 

Have fun and good luck.

And again, bike won't stop suddenly like you've described because of the carb stuff you're chasing...  sounds like maybe you have a bad stator, ignition coil, or plug cap.  Or got a bunch of counterfeit plugs that keep failing.