I received the ignition from RSS. It came in about a week. I just recently had a chance to start installing.
 



The kit comes with instructions that are pretty easy to follow. The stator plate comes with 3 screws to mount where the existing plate was (or in my case, the stator plate was missing)  .


The new 12v coil and regulator rectifier mount to the stock area. I had to bend the mount down for the regulator/rec to fit. It's larger than original. 
 

 

The RSS CDI module mounts where the Yamaha one was. I didn't get a pic.  
The whole kit is plug and play to the Yamaha harness. Very nice so far...
So I turned on the key and gave it a few kicks. It is very close to wanting to start and has a nice spark but I have some decent kickback going on. 

I have never had this bike running. I had to go through the carburetor and installed a new spark plug. My float level may be a bit low or I HOPE there isn't an issue with the ignition.  There is nothing to set as the OG flywheel is still keyed and the stator plate is fixed.

 

I guess not as you have instructions--but--on the face of it--it sounds like the key should be discarded & timing set to a stator mark with crank set at [whatever it is] 2.9mm btdc guessing a little.
That'll kick the discussion off for now but i wouldn't keep kicking if kicking back hard--or at all--or damage could result.
No other screw holes to use in the plate that could change the position enough.
Not 1/3 of a turn out.

As you can see in the photo, the screw holes are fixed and countersunk. My plan is to use the dial indicator and see just where the spark event occurs.
But yes, if the timing is for sure off, I will remove the key and clock the flywheel to 2.9 BTDC. I am thinking that if the float level is low I would not have that ass kicking kickback.

Might need to strobe it kicking or better still turning with a drill with plug out & earthed.
Set the crank at 2.9-ish & flywheel on the key.
Then felt pen anywhere convenient across the flywheel & onto the case just to witness where it fire in relation to your pen marks--knowing that the pen 'is' 2,9 or close. Looking for firing being way advanced ie before the mark looking around clockwise till ya find it.
Don't be surprised if you find it 180 out too if ya stand on your head but ignore that--don't look.

Must be an illusion,-- but expanding the plate pic in the case it looks like a crank seal is not back in the case.

I will take a look at the seal.
180 out would be nice. Now you have me wondering if the stator is upside down!

So get the piston at 2.9 btdc and mark the flywheel to case. Then turn over engine with a drill, plug out earthed and see where the strobe (timing) light shows in relation to the mark.

Yep but cant be 180 out with three screw. But could be umm-whatever a third is lol.
In reference to 180 i was just recalling strobing cdi flywheels at work & found one day that it was firing 180 out plus at the right place up top.
Just firing twice a lap. Maybe they all do that but we never know--no reason to look that far around strobing. Points mags can't do that due to the cam.
On what i was checking at the time the magnets passing determine the triggering point, so i dunno maybe every second magnet passing.
Was an AG100 later cdi model from thinking about 1980 common as dirt--farm bikes.
This to YAMFAN--on one of my RT2 360 motors i have a total jackup using only a dt360a source coil [no trigger] & an RG50 [JR50--& lots more] secondary coil/cdi combined. DT360A flywheel on the crank key & runs like a top [very rattly worn out top lol].
Came about when i bought a stator & flywheel for 20 bucks that was destroyed, but source coil looked in with a chance so experimental time. Might have a video. Dont laugh it could happen to you when ya get old. Na you'll be organised!!.

God it's ugly. To do with post above to Yamfan.