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Makotosun

Hoping to bring my old DT 360 back from the dead

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Yes, on what RT325 says on the dogs and slots... when they get worn the shift forks take a beating trying to hold the gear engaged.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
21 Oct 2020 20:20 #71

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Thanks Mark T on the link to the clutch plate nub position. Says they should be staggered about 50 degrees apart so I will be pulling mine back apart and setting it up correctly.
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21 Oct 2020 20:30 #72

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No, that's not right, you were supposed to say they looked great and good for another 10,000 miles......

Whoooboy, starting to wonder if I bit off more than I can chew. I saw the rounded edges but thought, or hoped, it wasn't bad enough to be a problem. I'll look at the drum in the morning and see what it looks like. If it's looks bad too I guess I'll check ebay and see what a drum and a couple of gears will cost.
To satisfy my curiosity, what effect will the existing gear wear have in the real world? Is it likely to jump out of gear, miss gears or....Reason I ask that is I'm 71, my days of slamming the bike through the gears, hill climbing, hole shots, or banging between the stumps along old logging roads are long gone. Just looking forward to some nice easy runs on these winding Missouri secondary roads, 45-50 mph, 60 max. Do you think those gears will be a problem with that kind of riding? I don't recall having shifting trouble but then again, it was 30 years ago so .

Anyway, thanks for your advice and help.
21 Oct 2020 20:45 #73

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Don't freak out on the gears.... could be someone rode for a few minutes with pressure on the shifter or something too.... a little rounding on the very edges isn't horrible. if the dogs and slots are badly worn at an angle so that torque will force them apart (hope that makes sense) that would be a problem.

There are shops that can fix the gear engagement slots too...
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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21 Oct 2020 21:00 #74

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I think the only option for the wear at the shift for is the shift drum, which steady pushes (red circle) the shift fork towards the gear wheel (blue arrow. Maybe only when this gear is shifted, maybe always when motor is running.
So check the shift drum and it´s slots and also the allignment of the shift drum in the housing. Maybe the drum is not correct alligned in direction of the green arrow. (missing or additional washer)
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Last edit: 22 Oct 2020 01:02 by Wessi.
22 Oct 2020 01:00 #75

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  • Jack
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Nah, I'm not freaking out, just backing off the throttle a quarter turn. But I do think I need to take a little more time to think things through a bit/do a little more research on parts availability/ cost/etc./ and go over condition of my existing parts more thoroughly before throwing any more money into this. I know, all stuff I should have done before even starting. I'll most likely go ahead as planned, probably won't replace the worn gears or the shifter drum unless I find a super deal on ebay. Transmission wasn't giving me any trouble when I last rode it as near as I can recall, and I think I'd remember that if it was. And I rode it a whole lot harder back then than I'll be riding it this time around so I think I can get away with those parts as they are. If I'm wrong I guess I'll pull it back apart, should be a lot easier second time around. :lol:
22 Oct 2020 09:46 #76

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I looked it over pretty close this morning and can't see any obvious problems so just don't know but probably gonna go with what I have and see how it works out. Wish me luck!
22 Oct 2020 09:52 #77

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Jack, I have the drum that went to the forks I sent you if you want or need it let me know. You would have to use your keeper and screw that holds the pins in though, that was all I needed from the whole setup.
22 Oct 2020 10:47 #78

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You're a generous man Dave and I thank you for the offer, but I think I'm gonna use the one I have. I looked at it this morning and it looks alright to me. Then again, I probably wouldn't know a good one from a bad one so who knows. But I really do think it's alright and it was working the last time I road it. And if I'm wrong I'll just have to take it apart one more time, which at least I'll know what I'm doing by that time. Heh..
22 Oct 2020 12:11 #79

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I have a question about the DT 360 Primary Drive gear. On the parts lists it shows an O ring that goes between it and outer seal. No O ring on mine and I don't see any obvious place where one would go, or it's purpose. Anyone know if that O ring really belongs on the 360 or is it another 250/360 parts list error and should be listed as a 250 only part? Number 18 in the pic.

My crank kit finally arrived today and after packing everything up to ship to Bill Bunes I drove the 22 miles to the nearest Fed EX drop off site only to find out I had to return home, get online, download and print off a shipping label and take it back with me. Too late today to get that done so will be shipping it out tomorrow.

Been slow going figuring out what parts I needed and worse yet where to find them but slowly getting there. Ordered the crank bearings from Simply bearings tonight, two week delivery time but those dudes are hard to find. Now to find the seals for them and the smaller bearings and seals too. I'm gaining ground, steady by jerks..
23 Oct 2020 16:30 #80

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