Soaked the air box overnight and it came out looking almost new. Still a bit of rust in a couple corners but very minimal and I'll probably have to settle for that. Nothing left that looks like it could flake off or anything like that.

Josh called this morning and gave me the the piston size I need, second oversize so I just sent a message to Enduronut with the info. He's going to send it and my crank seals straight to Bill Bune's to save time and to cut down on my shipping expenses.

in the meantime I'll keep working on cleaning/prepping the smaller parts.

The screws that hold the pulsar and coils to the plate are all being stubborn. They've been sprayed with PB blaster several times over the past couple weeks and still to tight to turn manually. Would like to clean the whole thing up and taking it all apart seems like the best way to do that but nervous about hitting the screws with an impact driver. Not sure how sensitive the pulsar would be to that kind of impact/vibration. Everything checked out good ohm wise the other day so don't want to mess up anything by hammer blows.

I've run into a snag on one of the trans bearings, the one that goes just inside the drive sprocket. Original part no is 93306-30512 but from what I've gathered from reading old posts and doing some offsite research that number has been succeeded by new numbers at least once, maybe twice. Very confusing.

Partzilla lists a bearing that is completely wrong for the application.

Bike buzzatrd lists one but apparently is out of stock at the present.

Ebay has an OEM but I can actually see rust on it.

CMS has one that they claim will fit both the DT 250 and 360 but it is a sealed bearing so not sure if this will actually work or if it does should I pry the seals off or even if I can. Does anyone have any experience with these or better yet does anyone know where I can find exactly what I need. preferably from a US supplier to avoid the high shipping charges?

I've been trying to figure this out for a couple weeks, researched it till my eyes are bleeding and I'm pretty much up against a wall on it. My cylinder and crank are at Bill Bunes and will be on their way home in a week or two I imagine so it's getting close to crunch time so if anyone can give me any information on this I would really appreciate it. Thanks

Do you have the original bearing? What are the numbers on it? Probably available at any good bearing supply.

The numbers on my bearing are NTN 6305N on outer race and on the inner race there is X1. I've been to several sites of different bearing manufacturers and none of them have this bearing listed. Mine is still in the case, I haven't taken it out yet because I'll have to use it if I can't find a replacement. It feels fine when i spin it by hand but I'd much rather put a new one in there if I can.

6305N is a standard common bearing. 6305 is the size. The "N" is a special feature code that means a snap ring in a groove on the OD. Sometimes the bearing comes with the snap ring installed, sometimes you need to swap over the ring from the old bearing.

The "x1" is not relevant.

Sometimes bearing supply stores carry the "sealed" or "shielded" variants because it's a simple matter to pop out the seal or shield... so instead of carrying several parts they reduce their inventory.

Check ebay for 6305N and you'll find dozens of choices... some in OEM Yamaha boxes. A bearing supply should not have trouble getting you one either.

P.S. I saw one on ebay with a "C3" designation. The C3 indicates extra internal clearance... usually used on crank bearings. It would work but I'd stick with a plain 6305N

I’ve used impact on them and totally messed up the heads. Then went to good vise grips and they backed out OK. Had to replace the fasteners of course because of the damage.

Thanks Mark, I may over-think stuff sometimes. But I ordered one from Partzilla earlier this morning. Turns out they do have the bearing, but they don't list it as fitting a DT 360. The one I ordered does have the seal on one side but it appears that's the only way they come now. So I'll pop it out as you said. I'd looked for that bearing on ebay many times and found a few that the numbers matched but I found none that listed it as fitting my bike. Also almost all of them are from overseas sellers. There are so many mis-labled parts on ebay, everywhere else too it seems, that it's hard to know what fits and what doesn't.

Figuring out part numbers and actually finding the parts has been a major headache and I'm very happy to say that I believe this bearing was the last thing on my list as far as engine parts go anyway. I've kept a record of everthing I've bought and where I got the parts for future reference if needed.

Thanks Pedalcrazy, Not sure there's enough clearance to get vice grips on the pulsar screws. If I remember right they kind of sit down in a pocket, could be wrong about that, but I'll check after while and see if I can break them loose.

Never got around to working on the stator assembly today. We finally got some nice weather so decided to push the frame outside and start taking things off. Started with the very small goal of removing the head and tail lights but once I got started I just kept going and ended up also taking off the tach and speedometer, key switch, brake light switch, ign coil, and some capacitor looking thing that I'll need to look up later just to see what it does, Also removed all cables, levers and grips.

The job wasn't as complicated as I had thought it would be but took plenty of pics as I went along to help me when it comes time to put it all back together. Not a whole lot left to take off now. I plan to do some research on front fork removal this evening and will probably tackle that tomorrow if we get another nice day. With a little luck I'll have the entire frame stripped and ready for paint and rust removal by this time tomorrow night. Didn't think I'd be able to get the frame painted before it got too cold but looking like I might make it after-all. That would be great.

Mother nature gave me another day of excellent weather today so I took advantage of it and finished stripping all parts off the frame. I had a moment of panic when one bearing fell out of the steering tube as I was removing it but my wife happened to be nearby and she came to my rescue and found it for me. Remarkably everything in there looks and feels great. Don't think I need to do a thing there other than clean and re-grease.

Everything went so well with the disassembly that I had time to start paint and rust removal. There was so much rust scattered about on it that there really wasn't any other option than to take the whole thing down to bare metal so I used a soft wire cup brush on my little angle grinder and got busy. It went pretty quickly and I would have been completely done if my brush hadn't wore out on me. I wore it down to a nubbin but just couldn't squeeze any more out of it so I had to make a Harbor Freight run and pick up another brush. And of course who goes to H F and only buys one thing, not me, so I picked up some other goodies while I was there. Then a quick stop at Lowes to pick up paint and primer. All set for tomorrow and with another good day in the forecast I should easily be able to finish cleaning the frame and get a coat or two of primer on it .

Almost scary how well this project is going. So far the only disagreeable part was finding the needed engine parts. That was a pain, but I guess most here are well aware of how difficult that can be. I'm very glad that hunting for parts is about over with. I'll need some more parts, like fork seals, rubber grommets, brakes, etc but I'm hoping that won't be quite the problem engine parts were. And I'm becoming familiar with the different vendors out there selling vintage parts now so that will help too.

Ok, my excitement in my rebuild progress has me talking too much so I'll shut up and post some pics.