Ordered the crank kit a few minutes ago. According to seller it may be two weeks before I get it though. That'll give me plenty of time to clean up the cylinder to have it ready for shipping to Bill Bunes along with the crank when the kit gets here.

Removed the compression release and cleaned it up along with a lot of miscellaneous nuts and bolts today, Have to sit down and figure out just what I'm missing in the way of small parts. I already know I'm missing a couple washers that are part of the clutch assembly so will have to see if I can find some place to get them and I'm guessing there may be a few other things that have got lost over the years.

Found a couple issues with case wear and wear on one of the shifter forks. I think the kick shaft/bushing fit is evidently pretty loose causing it to wobble a bit when being kicked. Didn't seem to be causing any trouble as near as I can recall but not having ridden it for about 30 years it's hard to remember for sure. Same thing goes with the shifter fork wear, don't recall any problem shifting either, but something definitely not right there. The case wear near the drain plug wasn't causing any trouble either as near as I can recall.

I think everything is probably still useable in it's present condition but mostly worried about the wear on the shifter fork. I smoothed up the rough area and put it all back together again and it seems to shift all right but I think if I run onto a replacement fork between no and assembly and don't have to pay an arm and a let for it I'll replace it. Otherwise I'll try running it like it is. Would appreciate any one else's opinion on any of the above mentioned issues. Thanks, attaching some pics.

I have a set of shift forks for a 74 DT360 if you want them just send a message and cover the postage to get them to you. I bought the whole drum set up to get the keeper and screw that holds the pins on the end of the drum but didn’t need the rest. I just about have my 360 back from the dead, at least as far as I’m going to take it, it was left outside to rot for the last 20-30 years and was a seized up mess. Now it looks decent and runs fantastic with new crank bearings, seals, a set of .05 over piston and rings from Enduronut and a vape ignition system bought direct from the factory. I still need some new tires and to fix the silencer. As far as shifting on the bench after re-assembly I was a bit concerned because it shifted through the gears but not smoothly or easily. I am amazed how well it shifts now though, totally silent and smooth as can be.

Wow, thanks so much Dave, very generous! Sent you a message.

Your bike looks great, can't wait til mine looks like that again. It'll be awhile though, I'm just getting started, and I'm gettn old and slow so I'm shooting for a year from now, or somewhere around that. We'll see. Mine has sat for about 30 years too but at least it had a roof over it's head, although one side of the shed was wide open to the weather. It's not in too bad of shape considering everything it's went through though...

In between chasing down the engine parts I need and cleaning the ones I have I've been assembling and disassembling various systems trying to both get an understanding of how it all works and also to hopefully make it a lot easier at the time of final assembly. After several attempts to get the shifter cam assembly and trans gears installed I finally figured out a way to do it other than inserting it as a complete assembly which is what I had been trying to do. I was able to do it that way but it was never fun and pretty frustrating. I found out that while you do need to install both trans shafts as a unit, the cam, shifter forks and pins can all be installed separately and it's way easier that way, at least for me it is. So pretty happy with that.

I've did the vinegar soak on the tank and it made a big improvement but will need further cleaning. And when I flushed it out a small brass tube came out with the gunk and rust. I suspect it is part of the fuel shutoff valve but I haven't taken it apart yet since I plan to do another vinegar soak.

Bought a HF metric tap and die set so I can clean up all the threads but haven't got to that yet.

Today I decided to get the know the kick start mechanism. Thought it would be pretty straight forward but having some trouble. The service manual says to take note of the preload on the return spring so that you can put the same preload on it when reassembled. It states that without the proper preload the ratchet wheel will not disengage properly. I suspect that would be catastrophic. But having taken it apart about 30 years ago I have no clue what the preload felt like back then. But even if I did remember I still don't understand how you can put a preload on it. You slip the slotted shaft end over the straight part on the end of the spring and that's it. And to my way of thinking, even if you could somehow get a preload on it as soon as you inserted the shaft and let it go it would jump right back to where it was to begin with so no preload. Hoping someone here can explain what I'm doing wrong.

Nice progress!

Careful on using vinegar with the petcock installed. It will eat right through it and you'll may have a big mess when vinegar all leaks out.

Take it from me, disassembling an engine and tossing the parts in a box and letting it sit for 30 years creates a few problems putting it all back together.

One of the problems I'm trying to work through right now is figuring out the washer sequence on the clutch assembly. The parts manual is a little confusing but it looks like at some time Yamaha decided to eliminate one of those washers and replace it with one that was originally listed for the 250. Item numbers 11 and 12 in the manual.

I have a cupped washer that I believe is what they call a Belleville spring. It is listed as a part for the 250 but I think they later decided to use if for the 360 too. Does that sound right?

There are three other washer/shims that go on the clutch, item numbers 13, 17, and 18. I have two of those three but not sure which goes where and which one I'm missing. What would really be helpful is if someone had a clutch laying around that they could maybe maybe lay out in the order of installation and get a pic of or if someone happens to know the thickness of each one. I've searched everywhere I can think to find those measurements but have been unable to find any of them.

Attaching a pic of the parts manual with arrows pointing to the shims in question. Thanks

Jack...I’m replying to your earlier post...small thing but the cutaway at the drain plug is normal and not wear. The kicker area...OMG...I’d be looking closely at what caused that and get it corrected. Been a couple years since I’ve had mine apart so not sure how it “should “ look. Bits of aluminum missing and were floating around in there causing who knows what. Careful inspection of all gear teeth and wear surfaces for sure!

Yeah that looks pretty scary. I don't recall having any trouble with the kickstart but that was so long ago I may not be remembering everything, and for sure something is definitely not right in there.

I was just looking over the kickstart parts a couple days ago, trying to figure out how it all goes back together and it looks like two shims are missing. I don't really know if they were missing before or if they went missing somewhere between tear down and now. But if a previous owner had left those shims out and I'd been running it without them, while not good for sure, I don't really see how that would have the caused the wear on the aluminum housing. Seems like sideways and not lateral slop on the shaft would be the cause of that wear. Fit "feels" ok but can't really get a feeler gauge in between the shaft ends and bushing to check the fit so I think I'll need to try to find the specs on shaft and bushing diameters and see if it's out of tolerance, making for a sloppy fit, that's what I suspect may have caused this. Don't know though and will definitely look into it further and will make sure all shims are in place upon reassembly.

Surprisingly every gear in the case looks to be in near perfect condition, no rounded or chipped teeth, no galling, no wear marks. When and if I figure out what caused that wear I'll make a post about it.

Thanks for your input Pedalcrazy, much appreciated!

There's several discussions on here regarding clutch assembly... or maybe MDscott or one of the other DT360 experts will be along to help.