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Makotosun

Hoping to bring my old DT 360 back from the dead

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I've found some threads here and other sites on Clutch installation but haven't found the information on the shims that I'm looking for. I'll do another search in case I missed something.
19 Oct 2020 16:54 #41

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I spent quite a bit of time studying the problem in the kickstart area and can't find an existing problem that I believe would cause the case wear. But I did notice a couple things I'd overlooked before that may be a clue as to what happened. It looks like two of the three bolts holding the detent arm guide are newer than the third indicating that they've been replaced sometime in the past. I also noticed that the lock tabs are not sitting on the flats of their perspective bolt heads and are in danger of coming loose. I wonder if that same scenario wasn't the initial cause of the damage in that area. I'm just speculating of course but if the locking tabs hadn't been bent up far enough at some time in the past or possibly left completely straight and not bent up at all then the kick wheel gear would have most definitely been rubbing against the them. Depending on how bad it was it was rubbing it could have broken of a big chunk or just wore it down gradually. Either way, the debris would have fallen into the gap and probably become trapped there, between the gear and the case which could have caused damage similar to what shows in the pic. Every single kick thereafter would have added to the wear. Just a theory but I think it's possible that that or something similar was the cause. I pulled on the top of the shaft as hard as I could and I couldn't make it touch the case. And that was with only one shaft end in it's bushing. There would have been even less slop if the other end was sitting in it's bushing .

Here's a couple pics I took today and another pic of the initial damage that I took last week for those that haven't been following this thread.

As always other opinions and or advice is much appreciated. Thanks
19 Oct 2020 17:22 #42

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Read through this thread completely. If I remember correctly it has the answers to the clutch questions you're asking and some you haven't asked yet... :)

yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/main...ld-questions?start=0
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
Last edit: 19 Oct 2020 17:36 by MarkT.
19 Oct 2020 17:32 #43

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Thanks Mark, but that thread deals only with the steel and friction plates of the clutch itself. I have some questions on that too but will save that for a later date.

What I'm looking for right now is the arrangement and size of the washer's and shims that go under and above the clutch hub. These shims ride directly on the shaft , not inside the clutch basket and they have a much smaller diameter than the friction and steel plates.

They basically look like flat washers which share the same diameter center hole size (shaft size) but have differing thicknesses and outer diameters.
There is a link in that thread that may have the information you're remembering but that link is apparently broken.
19 Oct 2020 18:13 #44

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G'day Jack, was just looking through your posts and saw your query about the "apparent" damage to your right hand crank case near the kick start shaft.
I do not believe there is actually any damage there, it is just manufacturing "defect" if you will, that has no consequence. The machining by the factory cut out most of the material behind that alloy for the steel part and left a very thin wall of alloy that may or may not have been there from new.
Please see two pics attached, one is from my own bike, owned from new in 1974, that has no kick starter issues, the whole bike currently being re-furbished, the other is from a spare right case I have.
I think you can see, it is "normal" ??? if not maybe a little slackness on the part of Yamaha's manufacturing, so nothing to worry about.
Oh, the other thing that also points to it not being damage from something contacting it, is there is no evidence of anything contacting or rubbing that area.
Hope that helps put your mind to rest.

Regards, Max.

Power On Regardless
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Last edit: 19 Oct 2020 18:29 by 2noSmoke.
19 Oct 2020 18:23 #45

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Oh man, thank you Max! That takes a big load off my mind.
19 Oct 2020 18:40 #46

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Might've been well covered but with the wear on the selector fork there'll be a good reason for that with wear on the dogs & dog slots in the two related gears. Check them carefully. 3rd gear is the most likely pair but you'll see which gear that selector fits into. In the parts listing they probably call it something other than 3rd gear--if it ends up being 'that' pair in the end.
19 Oct 2020 18:43 #47

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Thank you RT, I've looked at the gears and they all seemed to be in great shape but I might well have overlooked something, especially in the dog slot areas which for some reason I didn't pay that much attention to, my bad for sure but I'll check them all extra carefully first thing in the morning.
19 Oct 2020 18:59 #48

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Post #21 shows actual pictures of the washers under the hub and there are references to using the SC500 diagram. There are many errors in Yamaha diagrams.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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19 Oct 2020 19:02 #49

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Oh and yeah... the link to the old forum probably had some of the info... I'm not familiar enough with the DT360 clutch to remember the details.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
19 Oct 2020 19:08 #50

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