Pulled the clutch out to install new crank seal and retainer on my CT3 today
and noticed before I loosened the nut on the clutch basket that there was a 
bit of end play on the inner basket. Changed the seal out and put it back t
together and still have the play in it. Checked to make sure the thrust washers
and the flat brg. were installed it the correct order and all of that seems to be
ok. The nut has a recess that goes against the shaft and that seems to be 
correct also. I could see where a person could over tighten  if it didn't have that
set depth. So, is a small amount of end play in that inner basket normal? Shaft 
is not moving in and out at all with the nut tight. D

Did you mean outer basket?

No, the outer is good. Just some slight play on the inner. The
toothed lock washer that goes behind the nut is not snug. It
may be the way they are, I just had never noticed before. There
is no room for another shim washer where the flat brg. goes.

Send some pictures including the basket to primary gear

Doesn't sound right.  Someone before you might have done something wrong. 

Should have a washer* against the trans bearing...  tall spacer...  outer hub over spacer... then a washer and then flat bearing over the spacer then another washer that does not slide over spacer...  then inner hub. 

*some models had two washers against bearing.  I think that was earlier. 

I agree MarkT that’s why I asked for a pic of the basket to primary gear to check the spacing #18 on partzilla yea something didn’t sound right MarkT didn’t some have a shim washer also or am I dreaming haha

I was typing while you posted. 

Thrust bearing is shown wrong in most drawings.  Flat bearing comes with a washer and then there is a second washer...  3 pieces between hubs and drawings show two to avoid confusion ordering parts which creates confusion assembling.  Confused? 

Hell yea!!!

So if you were to put a firm hand on the pressure plate while manipulating the clutch lever just enough to get close to lifting--you can feel the hub/pressure plate/everything in the middle move out & in if you push against it?. Flat bearing & thin face washer are one unit. Thin part goes against any cast bit which would be the cast center of the basket so flat rollers aren't running on cast iron. So should be a thick flat against the rollers between rollers & alloy hub. Ok, went & looked--No2 is flat bearing but its invisible washer goes 'this' side to protect rollers against cast iron center of hub. Thick washer No3 shown saves rollers from the alloy hub. Also i thought Nut 14 is stepped to step over the bit of shaft that protrudes so the inner step compresses up the splined washer all nice & tight. Whats more if you 'get that right' & the the hub won't turn freely, then there's other things that come to mind 'if' its been running loose for who knows how long. Does yours have the anti rattle heavy rubber ring No15 that damps the basket play. Fits over that big gear & takes any shake out of it that makes CT3's sound rough at idle. Chattery rough.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1973/ct3/clutch

I kinda thought that there should be a shim washer on both sides of the flat bearing. But, I don't think that there is room for another shim washer on item 17. Doesn't look like the cases have ever been split on the bike judging from the looks of the screw heads. The shim washer that is on the bike protects the clutch basket from the bearing running on it. The other side of the bearing runs on the cast hub which I think is strange. One other way to describe the play is that if the toothed washer item 13 was half again as thick, it would probable snug up also. End play on the shaft seems ok, so I wonder if another shim washer is what I need to do. Any idea where I might find a picture that shows a washer on each side of the flat bearing? Thanks, Dennis