On the 360, you should have a "toothed" cover/pressure plate.  That style generally ends with a friction on top.  

Again, you can't rely on the diagrams for assembly unfortunately.  Especially since the 250 and 360 shared the diagrams and the clutches are slightly different.  

"Toothed" pressure plate (can end with friction on top)


"Smooth" pressure plate (must end with steel on top)

Hey Mark, I really appreciate your feedback here! I do in fact have a toothed pressure plate so the clutch discs are in correctly...I would have followed the diagram and screwed it up! Cool, I will take all the discs out, clean them up and replace them. 
 

If you have calipers you can measure your clutch plate thickness and free length of the springs. You should find the acceptable limits listed in the manual. Just make sure your caliper jaws are both on the raised pads of the fiber clutch plates. Not that I’ve ever made that mistake. 

Ok, I was able to check the discs and they are within specs including the pressure plate springs. Anyone tell me what's the significance of the arrow on the clutch steels? I figured it out watching a Youtube video...you stagger the arrows with the arrows on the basket...

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That's interesting. It looks like those have to be oriented the correct way or the pressure plate won't fit, and so it all balances. I checked a pic of my CT-1 steels, and they look nothing like that.

imgur.com/xWDkhQe

I found this on Youtube:

The "off center" steels came out about 1974 and are designed to minimize "rattle" when the lever is pulled.  Later service manuals are another source for installation instructions.  

I'm not sure if this new design came out mid-production or if Yamaha simply neglected to mention it in their 1974 250/360 service manuals?  Either or both could be true.  

That's interesting, and makes sense. That was similar to the rubber discs that the earlier enduros had to reduce rattle. I can see how that might work, by having steel plates that are not uniform in weight around the circumference.

The rubber rings on earlier models may have reduced rattle, the primary purpose as I understand it though was to "smooth" or "cushion" engagement and disengagement.  

Well, damn near didn't get the magneto off the bike today...thought I pulled the threads out, (which I did but only a couple), dressed the puller threads and tried again. It was extremely difficult getting the tool to thread in due to the rust. Finally got it pulled though...can you believe this bike is running with the rusted magneto??

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