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Makotosun

Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage

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A little outer basket play is normal before the discs and pressure plate are installed and springs tightened down. 

If you have outer basket play after full assembly I'm thinking either disc stack is too short or clutch pushrod is sticking out too far (adjustment).

Once pressure plate clamps down the stack, the play should go away.

Have you measured your discs to make sure they are in spec and made sure all are there?  Stack looks a little short but could be me...
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
01 Oct 2022 21:50 #61

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Replied by bhepp15 on topic Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage

Good to know. I have the plate installed not and there is still play. I adjusted the rod as well and imoproved but isn’t gone. I will measure my plates again tomorrow. I thought it looked short as well. I have 6 friction plates pressure plate on the outside with a metal one in between all and three to start. 
01 Oct 2022 21:56 #62

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I think I asked this before...  you said you lost the ball...  are you absolutely sure you don't  have 2 installed now?  Maybe it wasn't lost?
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
01 Oct 2022 22:42 #63

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Replied by bhepp15 on topic Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage

I’m pretty darn sure but I’ll be sure to look when I go back in tomorrow. I’m pretty sure I actually found the missing ball when cleaning the garage a few weeks ago but I’ll be sure to check! Thanks for all the help this clutch has really been something else 
01 Oct 2022 22:53 #64

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Be good to have a good video to view the play so we're on the same page incase some of us are thinking of play in different terms. So its just the basket, not shaft & everything moving sideways when all bolted up--i won't even go there--yet. I meant basket with gear--so teeth meshing with crank are moving sideways about 1mm. 1mm isn't much but then again the flat bearing rollers are pretty small diameter so wouldn't want any more. Zero with revolving clearance is ideal. Maybe i've got the wrong end of the stick--or stack.
02 Oct 2022 02:28 #65

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Replied by bhepp15 on topic Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage

I’ll try and get a video uploaded today! 
02 Oct 2022 06:21 #66

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With nut tight....  assuming it doesn't run out of threads on shaft and actually tightens against inner hub...  the hub presses spacer bushing which presses against inner ball bearing race which pulls shaft through bearing.  There is a shim and a gear on other side on bearing that prevents shaft from pulling through bearing. 

So with nut tight shaft is "clamped" on inner ball bearing race.  Any end play in shaft with nut tight would have to be ball bearing moving.  Not likely. 

Outer basket rides on spacer bushing which is slightly longer than total height of bushing inside outer hub plus height of thrust bearing and shim washers.  So there can be and usually is a little up-down play in outer basket with nut tight. 

But once you install the disk stack, the pressure plate, the springs, and snug down the bolts, the pressure plate pushes on the disk stack which pushes on the outer basket and no more outer basket play. 

So if stack is too short or pressure plate is held off the disk stack by pushrod adjustment, screwed up worm gear actuator not allowing pushrod to retract, (or wrong pushrod lengths or an extra ball), then you'll have play in the outer basket like you do with no disk stack installed.  

If you tried to ride bike, clutch would slip. 

 
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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02 Oct 2022 07:31 #67

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Replied by YamahaForumUsername on topic Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage

I dont know if the clutches are exactly the same as the dt1 but this video , despite being japanese, helped me get everything back together correctly. Turn on translate, auto-translate to english if you need to under stand him.



his videos wont embed in the forum so you will have to watch it on youtube.
02 Oct 2022 09:46 #68

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Replied by bhepp15 on topic Replaced crank seal now clutch won’t engage

Thanks for the video. Looks like I have been putting everything together correctly thus far but at 4:30 in the video he puts a washer between the outer basket and inner basket. Something my clutch did not have when I took it apart nor does it have now and the diagram for the DT3 has confused me there and I have asked about it but I would assume the DT3 would need this washer as well? Explains the play and the clutch not acting properly.
02 Oct 2022 10:49 #69

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I really don't recall you ever mentioning not having the washer between the inner and outer hubs.  You were asked by RT325 I think to lay out the parts you had for the hubs (washers, bearings, spacers, etc) and post a picture but that never happened. 

Are you sure the "kickstarter washer" didn't belong in the clutch?

In your pictures you show the nut threading on a long way.  As I've said, if that nut is bottoming on shaft before it tightens down on inner hub, you have a problem. 

From what I see in the parts diagram you should have a spacer #19 that goes on shaft first.  The hole in #19 is same size as shaft.  #19 is a thick washer with a small OD.    Then one washer #18 goes on shaft next.  #18 is thin with a large OD.  (about 56 seconds into video)

Spacer bushing #16 goes on next up against washer #18..   

Next comes flat bearing #17 and the thin flat washer that is part of #17 and not pictured or numbered.  (Read that again, bearing #17 has a washer with it that is not pictured.  ebay #17 link )  Bearing and washer that goes with it slide over #16.

Now the gear and then outer hub goes on...  .  Then another #18 washer (thin washer with shaft ID and large OD.) Then inner clutch hub.  Then belleville (cupped) washer and nut.

Looking at how far your nut threads on, I'm thinking you might be missing #19...  the thick washer with the small OD that goes on first?

Please post a picture of the spacers/washers/bearings/hubs laid out in order you are assembling them. 
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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02 Oct 2022 11:50 #70

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