Being tight with money i just get a piece of bronze welding wire & get it as straight as possible through the angled plug hole [& you can get pretty much straight], then rock it back & forth to find tdc. Then mark that point against the plug hole. Then mark 3.2mm higher up. Then turn the flywheel back to the 3.2mm mark on the rod. Then twink or felt pen the flywheel to the case. Can do that anywhere convenient that's easy to see. Then that can be your timing mark to refer to in the future or an easy one to strobe if you have a strobe light to do it with motor running.
Or you could go by the timing tab in the flywheel which aligns with a little notch in the flywheel slot. That's meant to be 3.2mm but if it's been bent by someone fiddling you could tweak it to match the notch in the flywheel slot using your new flywheel felt pen mark as a reference. Anyway. Points should be thinking about parting at that point. & theoretically the full open gap should be within limits of "no more than15 thou" & no less than 12 thou. It'll be close unless something odd is going on. Sorry keep adding & changing things. Hope you don't get lost haha.

So I finally got the exhaust installed again after breaking off an exhaust mount bolt and having to heli coil it and I installed main jet o ring and she ran well and revved again!! Now it is accelerating better than ever but on deceleration it sputters out and dies and there is nothing I can do to save it. It will sit there and idle and rev for days but I can’t slow down! I would like to say I still haven’t done the timing stuff so if this is a symptom of bad timing don’t respond haha. I did do the clutch so maybe it is grabbing on deceleration and killing it but it pushing in gear with clutch pulled easily so im not sure… any ideas. Also debating doing a top end as seems a little low on compression 

Pulled flywheel today. Crank key was indeed still in tact so that is good. I checked spark right before I pulled it and didnt have spark which is explained by the crank seal being blown and oil on where the points ride. Going to get new points as mine look beat. Question though how do the points actuate as the surface they ride on appears to be cylindrical? Ordered dial gauge as well. 

Hope your spark problem is only oil but have had mine well oily & still working. Talking cylindrical points cam--its not--but the lift is minimal & if you looked at it end on you should see a slight rise over an area maybe a third of the cam circumference--guessing. Make suire you tighten the flywheel good & propper. But just revolving looking for spark you'll be ok lighty nipped up as don't want to have to resort to the puller if ya going to have it off & on looking for the problem. Just don't run it like that.

Thanks RT325, I am guessing that's the problem or just bad points. I'm not too worried about it if it isnt either I have chased spark plenty of times before. What I haven't done is timed one of these. Looks like for the dt3 you need to pull the head to time it as the spark plug goes in at a sharp angle? I thought in the manual it showed a dial gague in the hole but I guess not maybe. Looking forward to actually combing throguh this bike and getting it running nice again.