Carb Oring i meant is No7 & seald the bowl onto the needle jet so the side bowl main jet isn't compromised by fuel getting past & acting like a way oversize main jet--won't rev & just drown like the choke is on big time, in a bad case at least. 

I probably mntioned exhaust. If severely restricted you use more throttle to try & get performance but its all downhill for the plug getting more fuel & oil than it can handle. Plugs probably ok if you can dry it out with a gas burner. & when you get it running good on a hoter plug then go back to the ngk8 & might carry on 'good as' with a dried out motor.

Thank you, it revs okay when running but i have that oring somewhere in my garage I think so I could do that when I get a chance. The latter case seems to be more my position. I’ve talked about burning out the exhaust for a while now and I just haven’t got to doing it and at this point I think many signs are point to that being a major problem. Thanks RT! 

Well.. I cooked the exhaust and it started right up with a new plug. It had more power than before which is good and it was riding well and then it started dying again. I can’t think of why it would be doing this. My carb is on the stock settings for mixture and it is premixed 32:1 I believe. After it dies it is very hard to start. Anyone have any idea why it would do this? I’m not sure what I’m missing here 

It’s also probably important to note that is is within 10 minutes of riding 

Did you ever check that O-ring in the bottom of the carburetor? I saw you said you might have it somewhere in the garage, but I never saw that you actually put it in. If it's not in there, or the one in there is falling apart , you're always going to have problems.

Shake the pipe & see what comes out the header pipe as could be loose lumps still floating around & blocking trying to escape. Cooking is good but still needs to be got out of there. We had a tall chimney at work & an LPG bottle with a big burner & get the pipe red then put the compressed air in & smoke out the city. Wouldn't get away with it nowdays.

I was thinking about it and I haven't had time to work on the DT much due to moving and a new job but when I try and kick it over it is kicking back almost every time which I thought was very weird. While in neutral it rolls fine but I am thinking that maybe my clutch adjustment is wrong and maybe it is slightly in gear which is why it is so hard to start and why it dies on deceleration because the clutch is still engaged. Im not sure if this logic is correct but I think it is when I get a minute I will back of the clutch adjustment and give it a go. I'm hoping it may solve at least some of my problems. No word on the o ring as it is at my other house an hour away and haven't been to look for it yet.

I did shake the pipe and not too much was coming out. I was blowing compressed air through while cooking but was quite hot so I didn't get too much in there. I need to get the exhaust painted so I might give it another go before I do that. Also would like to get the big dent out of the bend as well if anyone has some tips on that! If you zoom on my profile picture you can see the dent 


 

First & only thought on constant kickback is crank key [flywheel key]. Mind you i've not read too deep at the mo sorry as busy.

Is that how the timing works on these? That’s the one thing I haven’t looked into on how it works on this bike because I though kickback would be bad timing. Anyway got it running not kicking back as much after new clutch adjust. It wouldn’t run over 4K rpm and then it revived freely for a few miles. I stopped at auto parts store and after starting again would get over 4K… so that’s weird. Still no o-ring