Possibly, but I'd still id what model engine you have first.

My Engine ID minus two

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Looks like 1970 model DT1C, then, and you probably need a carb with 214 stamped on it (wait for others to confirm).

Thanks for the feedback so far

What size is the bearing in the clutch push rod assembly? mm or imperial? I don't think the bearing is in the clutch end. lots of play on the clutch cable. The worm is knackered so I think I need to get it replaced (surprise, surprise on this build :( )

I think its a big one 5/16 between the mushroom & pushrod. Mushroon extension will be 5/16 also. Be unlucky if thats been left out & makes ya wonder what else.
Hope not too many bad surprises in store.
But in the acuator where the cable goes there's a ball in there which in theory shouldn't drop out & without looking at mine i'm sure it's 1/4.
I butchered my actuator case & fitted an actuator from an RD400 or something the similar.
They're a 4 start steel worm--as oposed to three start--with a nylon outer worn and a tin outer casing.
Bit of a fiddle to get it in & set right for angle of the dangle--.
There's a post going back a bit of someone doing that operation.
Ok found something. Scroll down this page.
yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/1972...-actuator-mod#117596

That’s the longest kick stand ever 

Blimey lots of pic now, thanks.
Put it back to Std rear shocks then eyeball it & if necessary just slide the fork up through the yokes until it looks balanced.
Forks look DT250-400 up in later years with no mudguard mounts & are a bit longer. I run those forks on one of my 'Rat Things'
Front wheel might be more YZ as the DT up then had a slightly bigger front brake but with that conical hub look.
If sliding the fork up through just be aware of how far up the front wheel under fork compression.

Here's my mixture 360 from years ago which someone is still using wobbling around in vintage MX.
In my opinion all the angles on mine look right.
photos.app.goo.gl/G2uBy379B1aUEq5K9
Here's those forks like yours on my current Rat Thing & can see the larger brake looking through.
photos.app.goo.gl/UqiYbbuGcny49Vm87
Also your forks are back to front. Brake should be on the left.
Maybe the PO didn't have a cable long enough to go all the way.
Sorry i guess i'm just telling you what you already know.
My forks were from the first monoshock trail 250 i think "77 by memory & i see you handlebars step back on the mounts like my bike. Talking second pic.
First pic link bike has just RT-DT forks.

So today was just a day of cleaning parts and trying to find out a little more about the bike. The Clutch push rod cowel needed some tlc.

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The Perspex worm was shot as seems to be the case in a bike this old.

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I've ordered a replacement part from Yambits, along with a clutch cable...

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Moving around the bike and trying to get a better understanding of the parts on the bike. The forks look like they are a more modern fitment. Any help on identification appreciated

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The top and/or bottom yoke might have a number cast into them. If they have, then these can help in identifying them. Likewise with the front wheel hub and brake carrier. However, others might be able to tell just by looking at them.