You might find some more "extra" wires under tank, in headlight bucket, and near rear fender...  brown/white (under tank or seat and in headlight bucket), brown (near that brown/white under tank), dark brown and dark green (headlight bucket and near rear fender)...  Turn signals were not included on US models before 1971 but the wires were there on most earlier models.

The ONLY harness wire needed for spark is that single black/white from points in magneto to ignition coil.  The key switch grounds that wire to kill spark.

That's interesting, so as far as the wiring harness goes I could add signals if I wanted them, along with flashers and a different handlebar switch? I'm not sure if that's what I want to do, but if I end up riding it around town a lot I may consider it.

Probably.  I've never seen a CT1 that wasn't wired for signals but there could be some out there.

If you have the original "pressed steel" horn button and hi-lo switch, be gentle with it.  They are rare and expensive if you can find one. 

The later more conventional cast aluminum switches are easier to find and can be used on your bike if you need or want to.

I'll catch up later so likely repeating what's been said, but i see the White-Red in the CT1A diagram & will only be a higher rate of daylight charge i think. Just there if you want it. Would swap into the green from the loom 'i think'. Must go look at my AT1 as might have that too. So by connecting to the battery you'd probably only be warming up the coil--& the wiring but if no smoke then don't worry.

Tried cleaning the points last night. I took some 220 grit sand paper (hopefully not too course, that's the finest I had) and folded it over a flat piece of wood. I opened the points with a screw driver and slipped the sand paper/wood in. I released the points and sanded them under spring pressure. I tried for spark and then repeated a couple of times with not luck. Everything looked very clean inside - no corrosion or signs that moisture had gotten in there. That's all I had time for. I'll try Mark's suggestion to disconnect everything and jumper the black wire coming from the magneto to the ignition coil. Should be able to get a spark from this unless something is wrong at the magneto or coil. If I do get spark then... See if i can find somewhere the ignition circuit is shorting out? I noticed some loose wires around the headlight. Could that affect the ignition circuit? The only wiring I see associated with just the ignition circuit (looking at the diagram) is a black wire going from the magneto to the ignition coil and to the main switch. I don't think this bike has a kill switch. On the handlebars there is a horn and a toggle switch that I think runs the hi/low beam. Side note I hooked the battery back up and noticed that the neutral light, horn, and tail light work. 

Well now I have spark! Somewhere in the process of unplugging everything and running a jumper wire I get a good spark, even with everything plugged back in. Hopefully tonight or soon thereafter I'll get fuel in the tank and get that end online so I can see if it'll kick over. Thanks for your help so far!

Here is the bike:
1969 CT175

I think you need to pull a business card through the points to make sure they are clean as well… The wise ones will be along soon to embellish upon this..
Sneezles61

Jeff that’s a great looking bike you should change your brake shoes for safety reasons you wouldn’t want your son to have delaminated brakes while riding 

Congratulations!  Good job!

Very nice pair of bikes there.

Not sure if 175's have a female plug on the mag loom black like DT1's do with nothing in it & if so then don't go pluging that to earth as will just kills spark.