Next issue: The kick starter isn’t working properly. It works well enough to get the bike started, but sometimes it takes a few kicks to get it to engage. Secondarily, after the bike is started and it seems ok, the kick lever will suddenly rotate 10 or so degrees forward, causing a noise. If I move the lever back with my hand, the noise stops. I’m gonna take the cover off tonight and take a look, but I’d thought I’d ask if anyone else has experienced this phenomenon.

Thanks for reading.


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What year AT1 they had problems with the early ones look for a service bulletin in the tech library 

It will be the dogs leg spring clip has missed its slot when assembling the kick shaft. Very easy to do 'wrong' if ya not aware of how it goes. Clip never fails unless damaged by something else, so if its ok just align with the case slot for the bent ear "might not be bent on your model without looking" but Ear none the less. You'll see it behind the kick gear when ya pull the shaft out.

#17. Look for the guiding slit in the case.

www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcy...70/at1b/kick-starter

Pic below showing slot at about 11 oclock-ish.


photos.app.goo.gl/y38TKEDDJetWDHJS8

Also very common for the stop to slip on the shaft on that model. Pretty hard to tell by looking at it. Lever forward is a clue.

Sometimes someone clocks the lever forward in an attempt to kick more kick stroke... this contributes to the stop slipping IMHO.

Post pics of inside of case with kick start removed and of kick shaft assembly if you can.

Considering what Mark said i now think i might be quite wrong.
Shouldn't have had one more look before sleep lol.
For the lever to move forward it sounds like the stop has let go on the shaft but can't fathom why it would rattle partially engaged as going forward would try to spiral the gear away from engaging.
Unless something is missing letting the shaft move sideways but unlikely.
Stop on the shaft comes up to the case by the clip ear slot.
In the pic i used you can see the shaft has come around so far that the stop has bitten the case.
I don't like to think what might've been going on there but likely have been kicking it without the footrest on that limits the travel plus possibly having the lever as far forward as they could get it on the splines.
Anyway--going to loose sleep now!!.

I really appreciate all the input. I am gonna take the cover off later today and take a look.

In the meanwhile I think I have a charging problem. I’ll post back with my findings on both issues.

Thanks for reading.


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The ear is now in its slot. It is the “bent ear”. It took a couple tries, but I gott’er. I have not seen the phenomenon since the correction. This forum is an excellent resource, I appreciate the guidance.

I regret not having recording the thing it was doing, forgive my negligence.

Next Item: Charging system.

I had gotten a new battery before I got the bike running. After it was running I started taking laps around the yard. As I gained confidence, I went up and down the road, then around the block, increasing the radius till I got out in the country and did about a 6 mile loop. The “headlight on” position on the ignition switch was not reliable, so I was running with the headlight off. After correcting the switch, I tried going for a ride with the headlight on, the bike died about 2 blocks from my house. I waked it back to the house and after charging the battery, the bike ran fine. This morning, after correcting the kicker, I rode up the road, the bike died, and I walked it back home and put the charger on. After charging a while, I checked the voltage of the battery, 12.1v. I took a little ride, maybe three miles, bike ran great, got home and checked the battery again, 11.5v.

It’s a new battery
The acid was a little low in the battery, I topped it up, but the problem persisted.
When I’m riding, I keep the revs up, and try to avoid letting it bog.

What should I check? I got a pretty good fluke multi meter

Thanks for reading


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Just did a simple voltage test with the bike running. 11.55v with the bike idling, after maybe 30 seconds, it went down to 11.54v. If I kept the revs up the voltage would go up to 11.56. With the directional on, and the engine running, the voltage dropped quickly to 11.49, and continued to drop until I throttled to keep the revs up, at which point it leveled. The measurements were taken at the battery.

Also, I didn’t mention this previously, but a few days ago I mistakenly left the key in the run position for maybe an hour. The tank was off and I noticed that the coil got real hot. I turned off the ignition, let it cool, and it started no problem about an hour later.

Thanks for following


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