Just kick start it you'll know straightaway if its charging.
Not much charge need to kick it & fire up.
You'll see the light come up bright & hold while the motor is above almost stopped.
Granted a battery charge is needed but if you try that first you'll get more of an idea of change than with a fully charged battery.
But ok there's other easy ways to test like volt meter across even when fully charged & should go to 14+ volts. Well, would go to that even with an almost flat battery with motor running & charging.
A good battery should come up quick with a ride as will be much more charge going in than a charger would do, but yep an overnight charge is good.

Got a .75 amp charger last night. Charged overnight. Checked voltage in the morning, I think it was 13.5, I didn’t write it down. Disconnected the charger, went to work, came home at 4:30, checked voltage again, 12.59. Went for a short ride, maybe 2 miles, kept the revs up, no headlight, checked voltage again, 12.89v. I think this is the first time it has gone up after a ride. 

I’m gonna go through the charging system tests as outlined by the service manual tomorrow evening. I’ll post my results.

Sounds hopeful. Does the starter work. Any old cheap meter with dc volts capability put across the battery will tell you if it rises above its static voltage when started, if thats the right terminology. Then lights on it should still keep charging the same as compensates for battery draw with the regulator,

12.6 after resting is fully charged. Since your voltage was even higher after a ride you're likely just fine.

Electric start shares the same space with the generator but has its own circuits. So generator can work fine even though starter doesn't.

The starter does not work.

I did the voltage regulator test as described in the service manual. 13.8v at 2500 rpm. Manual states 15.8-16.5v at 2500 rpm. I adjusted the regulator as described, it’s 16.0v at 2500 rpm.

Is this a wise adjustment?

Thanks for the responses, I’ve been a part of a number of technical forums in the past. This one is excellent.



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Blimey that sounds high or higher than neccessary. It's just an electric brake, so be loosing a few horses having it that high. But--if that what the manual says. Bummer the starter doesnt work. Could bridge the solenoid just to prove a point that its not 'that'. By memory it sends direct battery voltage straight down the 'heavy' green? to the stator field coils & brushes? without looking.

Starter works, switch wire was not fully inserted.
Adjusted the carb after I read Superhunky’s article.
Head was leaking, disassembled cleaned and deburred the head bolts and washers, new gasket, torqued the head. Started with the electric stater nearly instantly.

What should the idle rpm be?

Thanks for reading

Wow, impressed, you're into it 'now'. into it & onto it.
Idle is a personal prefference thing realy.
But the yamaha data for AT3E which is similar with electric start says 1300-1400rpm.
If motor gets down to say 1000 guessing a bit that it'll drop onto retard & may stop it.
But if its got full compression it might idle on retard & hang on.
But thats too slow anyway. So up to you realy.

Retorque your head in the morning before you ride it again cold

Congratulations!