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Makotosun
Pete's AT1-C Restoration
- Pete-RT1
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Replied by Pete-RT1 on topic Pete's AT1-C Restoration
Hub looks like it will need a bit of work.
Thankfully the ultra polished look isn't what I'm after, but to each his own and hats off to anyone who puts in the effort to achieve that look.
I'll see how the blasting goes tomorrow.
I salvaged a dozen of the old spokes for spares, but most we're very rusty and the ones I did save are pretty ropey.
Annoyingly I had forgotten the nos rear spoke set I purchased months ago has two spokes missing.
Rims and bearings on order.
Thankfully the ultra polished look isn't what I'm after, but to each his own and hats off to anyone who puts in the effort to achieve that look.
I'll see how the blasting goes tomorrow.
I salvaged a dozen of the old spokes for spares, but most we're very rusty and the ones I did save are pretty ropey.
Annoyingly I had forgotten the nos rear spoke set I purchased months ago has two spokes missing.
Rims and bearings on order.
Yamaha CT1-B
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
20 Dec 2021 11:29
#41
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- Sneezles61
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Replied by Sneezles61 on topic Pete's AT1-C Restoration
Very crusty looking stuff... Can I add... Please wear some gloves with that grinder? If it separates, yer hands might bum out.. I appreciate yer artistic work!
Sneezles61
Sneezles61
20 Dec 2021 19:18
#42
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- Pete-RT1
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Replied by Pete-RT1 on topic Pete's AT1-C Restoration
Been a while, not really done that much.
Replacement front hub and spare rear hub are out for vapour blasting with both brake plates.
New Takasago rims arrived.
Cable set from KDI, oil tank decals, and a few bits from Motodad arriving Monday.
Screws, bolts and a few other parts out for zinc plating and should be done next week.
Tank is coming along nicely, looking forward to giving that some colour.
The CT3 has donated it's shocks since they are mint and the AT1 shocks were 9 1/2 out of 10.
I also robbed the seat latch, I think the front indicators will be heading that way too.
The cold garage isn't much fun, hence the steady progress.
Replacement front hub and spare rear hub are out for vapour blasting with both brake plates.
New Takasago rims arrived.
Cable set from KDI, oil tank decals, and a few bits from Motodad arriving Monday.
Screws, bolts and a few other parts out for zinc plating and should be done next week.
Tank is coming along nicely, looking forward to giving that some colour.
The CT3 has donated it's shocks since they are mint and the AT1 shocks were 9 1/2 out of 10.
I also robbed the seat latch, I think the front indicators will be heading that way too.
The cold garage isn't much fun, hence the steady progress.
Yamaha CT1-B
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
The following user(s) Liked this Post: type one, JGersh, Schu, adguy2112
15 Jan 2022 11:21
#43
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- Pete-RT1
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Replied by Pete-RT1 on topic Pete's AT1-C Restoration
Bit of a disappointing end to yesterday's use of the paint shop, all self induced
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Started off well, all silver tins painted up with no dramas.
Moved to the main event and having just cleaned and re-assembled my spray gun I couldn't quite dial it in to lay the paint as nicely as I have achieved before on many other paint jobs.
It was late in the day and against my better judgement I pressed on.
Temperature is warm for the winter but not warm enough to paint without additional heat and my mates spray shop has halogen heaters.
Having got the tanks painted and looking pretty good after adjusting my spray gun between coats things were looking good.
Previously I have removed the pinstripe masking before the paint has fully cured to avoid any paint breakout.
As I said it was getting late and the paint wasn't drying as quickly as I wanted, I started on the oil tank and the pinstripe was coming off lovely, right up to the point where the already removed tape in my hand touched the tacky paint on the painted side of the tape and stuck to it.
The piece in contact was about 1/4 inch long and as I removed it deposited some paint and cocked up the surface about 1/4" long just above the pinstripe
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.
Next to follow and add to my woes was moving the heat lamp too close to the fuel tank and causing some tiny bubbling in an area about 1" diameter.
I removed the pinstripe as I didn't want to remove it after the paint had dried and called it a night, knowing things would look better in the morning.
Flatted off the mark on the oil tank and I'll remask the pinstripes and I'm confident that will be 100%.
Flatted the tinny bubbles on the fuel tank which obviously revealed white spots.
I've managed to reapply the pinstripe masking so with a bit of clever spraying I think I can recover what was a bit of a crap day.
On a positive note the red metallic looks great.
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Started off well, all silver tins painted up with no dramas.
Moved to the main event and having just cleaned and re-assembled my spray gun I couldn't quite dial it in to lay the paint as nicely as I have achieved before on many other paint jobs.
It was late in the day and against my better judgement I pressed on.
Temperature is warm for the winter but not warm enough to paint without additional heat and my mates spray shop has halogen heaters.
Having got the tanks painted and looking pretty good after adjusting my spray gun between coats things were looking good.
Previously I have removed the pinstripe masking before the paint has fully cured to avoid any paint breakout.
As I said it was getting late and the paint wasn't drying as quickly as I wanted, I started on the oil tank and the pinstripe was coming off lovely, right up to the point where the already removed tape in my hand touched the tacky paint on the painted side of the tape and stuck to it.
The piece in contact was about 1/4 inch long and as I removed it deposited some paint and cocked up the surface about 1/4" long just above the pinstripe
This image is hidden for guests.
Please log in or register to see it.
Next to follow and add to my woes was moving the heat lamp too close to the fuel tank and causing some tiny bubbling in an area about 1" diameter.
I removed the pinstripe as I didn't want to remove it after the paint had dried and called it a night, knowing things would look better in the morning.
Flatted off the mark on the oil tank and I'll remask the pinstripes and I'm confident that will be 100%.
Flatted the tinny bubbles on the fuel tank which obviously revealed white spots.
I've managed to reapply the pinstripe masking so with a bit of clever spraying I think I can recover what was a bit of a crap day.
On a positive note the red metallic looks great.
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Yamaha CT1-B
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
The following user(s) Liked this Post: MarkT, Schu, Quartermaster35, Mike P
30 Jan 2022 12:28
#44
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- Pete-RT1
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Replied by Pete-RT1 on topic Pete's AT1-C Restoration
Despite my self induced troubles it all turned out very nice in the end
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Very pleased with the colour, it really pops now that I've done the clear coat.
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Very pleased with the colour, it really pops now that I've done the clear coat.
Yamaha CT1-B
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
The following user(s) Liked this Post: littlemilo, RT325, Sneezles61, adguy2112, Mike P
02 Feb 2022 11:11
#45
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- swm
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Replied by swm on topic Pete's AT1-C Restoration
Impressive paint work!!
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The following user(s) Liked this Post: Pete-RT1
02 Feb 2022 11:26
#46
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- Jammyyammy
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Replied by Jammyyammy on topic Pete's AT1-C Restoration
Nice one Pete - it all looks fantastic
The following user(s) Liked this Post: Pete-RT1
02 Feb 2022 11:46
#47
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- Schu
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Replied by Schu on topic Pete's AT1-C Restoration
Wow!
Very Nice work.
Very Nice work.
Schu
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B,
DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50, SCR950
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B,
DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50, SCR950
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
The following user(s) Liked this Post: RT325, Quartermaster35, Pete-RT1
02 Feb 2022 13:40
#48
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- Pete-RT1
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Replied by Pete-RT1 on topic Pete's AT1-C Restoration
Flatted the tanks today and sent the fork stanchions off for rechroming at Brook Suspension once I'd managed to move the circlips out of their grooves to the bottom of the stanchion.
Will let you know how good a job they do in 4-6 weeks.
Will let you know how good a job they do in 4-6 weeks.
Yamaha CT1-B
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
The following user(s) Liked this Post: MarkT, Dirtboy, Tinkicker
04 Feb 2022 10:50
#49
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- Tinkicker
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Replied by Tinkicker on topic Pete's AT1-C Restoration
Lovely paint job.
Don't worry about your forks.
I have had my VFR750 and DT forks done there.
Both turned out flawless. The big worry is if the stanchions are perfectly true.
Obviously they cannot grind bent ones. They charge £100 a pair for straightening them up first.
VFR legs were straight, but the DT legs were out by 3-4mm
I visited their workshop in Bradford when I had the VFR legs chromed.
Impressive hydraulic machinery in there for truing the legs up.
On the plus side, the hard chrome they use is industrial quality, not decorative and is typically up to .5 to .75mm thick as opposed to a few microns thick as they left the factory. It will not pit, wear or flake off.
If it's good enough for CAT and JCB...
The original factory chrome is mainly decorative with (relatively) minimal corrosion or wear resistance.
Upshot is you will have far better than new stanchions.
Don't worry about your forks.
I have had my VFR750 and DT forks done there.
Both turned out flawless. The big worry is if the stanchions are perfectly true.
Obviously they cannot grind bent ones. They charge £100 a pair for straightening them up first.
VFR legs were straight, but the DT legs were out by 3-4mm
I visited their workshop in Bradford when I had the VFR legs chromed.
Impressive hydraulic machinery in there for truing the legs up.
On the plus side, the hard chrome they use is industrial quality, not decorative and is typically up to .5 to .75mm thick as opposed to a few microns thick as they left the factory. It will not pit, wear or flake off.
If it's good enough for CAT and JCB...
The original factory chrome is mainly decorative with (relatively) minimal corrosion or wear resistance.
Upshot is you will have far better than new stanchions.
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