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Search Results (Searched for: clutch actuator)

  • MarkT
  • MarkT's Avatar
06 Nov 2021 10:39
Replied by MarkT on topic 1974 dt125 crank interchangeability
I probably could have said it better...

69-73 AT (125) and CT (175) shared the same center cases with a 130mm diameter stator size. 

In 1974, the "kick start only" DT125 (not offered in USA) and DT175 got completely redesigned center cases with a 120mm stator size.

The 1974 to 1976 USA "electric and kick start"  DT125  kept the older 69-73 case design with the 130mm stator. (This is what you have)

For the 1978 USA model year we got the "kick start only" monoshock DT125 and DT175 with yet another redesign and 120mm stator.  (There was no 1977 model DT125 or DT175 in the USA)

Easiest way to tell if the cases have the early 130mm stator is the clutch actuator is hidden inside the ignition side cover.  The 125's and 175's with the 120mm stator all have the clutch actuator in the left side center case with the actuator arm exposed on top of the engine.

Crank bearings and seals are the same for the 125/175 from 69-81.  Best ignition side seal to use is the 77-79 IT175 seal. 

Cranks are also very similar through the years.  Pre-74 models had a splined crank gear.  74-on had a keyed crank gear.  Around 1976 the primary gear ratio was made taller.

On the ignition side, the electric start 125 models had a shorter stub with internal threads.  Armature is held to crank with a bolt.  The kick start only models had a longer stub with external threads.  The magneto flywheel is held to crank with a nut. 

Electric and kick models were 12v.  Kick start only models were 6v.
  • 1971DT250
  • 1971DT250's Avatar
03 Nov 2021 16:45
Replied by 1971DT250 on topic RT3 360 Clutch Push Lever assembly needed
Over the last several years I bought several newly manufactured actuators and NOS sprocket covers when they were available. I've sold some of each recently to forum members. With my supply getting a bit low I got 2 of the brass spirals from KDI. Very easy to install.

 

 

 

 
 
  • RT325
  • RT325's Avatar
01 Nov 2021 18:29
Replied by RT325 on topic Clutch Will Not Disengage
Sounds like you're doing everything right. You might be able to 'just' see in the oil filler hole if the plates are separating but it the lever feels heavy like its pushing the pressure plate then i guess it must be lifting. Be prepared to go back in i think.
On the other side you get the best lift by freeing the cable adjuster at the handle lever then altering the adjuster bolt until it touches then back a 1/4 turn or so, then take up the cable play. Cable lower arm 'can' get bent if it has to work too hard like if the actuator worm is dry of grease-oil-lube then give excess cable to adjust but probably not that if it feels like its lifting. Hope there's a simple answer.
  • RT325
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01 Oct 2021 19:00 - 01 Oct 2021 19:06
Replied by RT325 on topic CT3- Shurley

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  • Flyingpob
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20 Sep 2021 09:50
Replied by Flyingpob on topic New DT1 250 project from France
Hi !

i am now looking for a complete clutch actuator mécanism.
is it possible to find such a mechanism NOS or rebuilt ?
thanks for your help 

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  • RT325
  • RT325's Avatar
09 Sep 2021 01:43 - 09 Sep 2021 01:47
Replied by RT325 on topic Newbie question 2 !... AT1 Neutral gear not engaging!
That's good. New & lubed cable plus get some lube into the moving bits of the actuator would make it even nicer. Forgot they have a tin cover on the inside to shield things, that's a good idea. Shows how long since i've looked at mine.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1970/at1b/clutch
  • RT325
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03 Sep 2021 17:46
Replied by RT325 on topic CT3 Clutch & Shift Question
Is the cable hung up or sitting on top of the case at the bottom. Back off the actuator adjustment to feel clearance if cable adjusters have clearance. otherwise its internal
  • RT325
  • RT325's Avatar
27 Aug 2021 01:22
Replied by RT325 on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question
Yep fully agree with cable--can't beat a new cable. Plus the operating actuator where the cable pulls to operate the pushrod, & get some lube into 'that' mechanism. Nothing in the clutch itself that'll cause it to get harder to pull.
  • turbodan
  • turbodan's Avatar
22 Aug 2021 17:54
Replied by turbodan on topic Hoping to bring my old DT 360 back from the dead
No way to know for certain, but the single year of service for this design is something that seems to support that conclusion.  The only things that really changed in 75 were the bore size and case volume.  To my knowledge the first year DT400's were not known for seizing and holing pistons like the DT360.

I do like the improved clutch release design on the 74 360.  Its easier to fix what I believe to be flawed in the 360 motor than it is to find a better clutch release actuator for the RT motor.

I would probably pass on the SC500 carb.  It is bigger than stock but other than that there are better options like the Keihin PWK or Mikuni TMX.  Hard to beat a 35-38mm flat slide. 
  • RT325
  • RT325's Avatar
19 Aug 2021 17:45 - 19 Aug 2021 17:47
Replied by RT325 on topic Yamaha DT125B clutch adjustment
Umm--umm umm. So am i thinking back to front. Is it slipping, as in revs rise without acceleration in speed. Sorry if i'm not quite on the case. DT125B according to this link, has adjustment screw 25 on the actuator which you could back off a bit. I was thinking yours is the different shape motor like 175 in 1975. Just need a bit more clarity of how it's behaving please. Is clutch burnt out. You'll soon know by smelling the oil by removing the dipstick by the kickstart--trans oil i mean.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1975/dt125b/clutch
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