Hey Guys...I just bought a 1970 CT1. I’m new to motorcycles but I’m loving working on the bike. I changed the clutch discs and steels but the clutch will not disengage. Adjusted the screw and still no luck. Takes a decent amount of pressure to pull the lever but I can see the adjustment screw/cam move a quarter inch or more. The rear wheel spins a tiny bit easier when I pull the clutch lever but still not totally disengaged clutch. Any thoughts?

Without getting too carried away just yet--with the plates removed can you spin the clutch center hub freely. Have had many times in the old days where there's almost zero clearance on the hub so next time--or first time it's tightened after being apart for some other reason it comes up tight & won't revolve freely if at all. So had to slightly modify--"Take a few thou off" the back where the kick gear fits & is part of the basket so it could spin freely. If it's not that then we'll start again. Was it ok before you got into it. Can you see the pressure plate lift etc etc. Just reading your post again, if you haven't had the hub nut undone then unlikely that problem if it was ok before changing plates.

RT325...Thank you for your reply! The clutch would not disengage when I got the bike. Had to get it rolling and pop it into second gear. It ran through the gears. I opened the case and the clutch plates and steels were shot. They were pretty much stuck together. I changed out the friction plates and steels figuring that would do the trick. I presoaked the fictions before installing. I did not check to see if the pressure plate lifted since I had the cover on the other side off as well. It crossed my mind that maybe the ball between the pushrods was missing but there is a lot of tension when I pull the clutch lever. I’m thinking I need to drain the oil and remove the cover again. 

Sounds like you're doing everything right. You might be able to 'just' see in the oil filler hole if the plates are separating but it the lever feels heavy like its pushing the pressure plate then i guess it must be lifting. Be prepared to go back in i think.
On the other side you get the best lift by freeing the cable adjuster at the handle lever then altering the adjuster bolt until it touches then back a 1/4 turn or so, then take up the cable play. Cable lower arm 'can' get bent if it has to work too hard like if the actuator worm is dry of grease-oil-lube then give excess cable to adjust but probably not that if it feels like its lifting. Hope there's a simple answer.

I appreciate the advice. I’ll take a peek though the dip stick hole and try adjusting the cable. I’ll let you know how I make out. Thanks again!

Wondering if you changed out the clutch cable. Maybe one of the experts here can attest if worn cables can contribute. Worst case you get a smoother action with a new cable. About $20 plus shipping on KDI. 

AND... find oil designed for a wet clutch... I learned that one..
Sneezles61

Have not had time to dive into the issue but I did peek through the oil fill hole and the clutch plate is moving. Going to need to open it up again to figure it out. Thanks for the thoughts. I'll post an update when I figure it out.

Don’t forget to take RT325’s advice, remove all the discs/plates and make sure inner hub spins free in neutral.