Advanced Search

After sitting for over 30 years my CT-1 plates were stuck. I didn't know any better and decided to sit on the bike, start it up in neutral, then with my hand on the front brake I revved it a bit with the clutch lever in, and jammed it into first. It broke the clutch plates free, and I was actually was able to ride around for a while, but they slipped.

Then I took the clutch apart and put cheap aftermarket plates in, but they never really grabbed well. Not long ago I finally bought OEM plates, and I would HIGHLY recommend doing that. Do not mess with aftermarket plates. I can't even make it slip now. I got lucky and got them when they were on sale for only $11 each from Partzilla. Also make sure to clean and scuff up the metal discs. I think I used 320 grit sandpaper on a sanding block, in a circular motion, and use JIS number 3 Phillips bit on the clutch spring screws. Standard number 3 may work with a impact driver, and I did it, but your risk stripping them.

Wow. They must be really stuck. Hopefully you can get your side cover screws to come loose for removal. You may need an impact tool. The type you smack with a hammer. Then maybe tie your clutch lever against the grip and then simply separate the stuck plates with small screw drivers at each open slot of the clutch basket. I’ve never done it but it seems worth a try. Maybe the experts will suggest other methods. I’m just trying to keep you from having to take the clutch assembly apart.

 

If the bike runs you can try the method I've used which is start the bike up and roll forward so that you can click it into gear without stalling the engine. Then go for a ride while you work the throttle back and forth. That has freed up the stuck clutch plates every time I've done it. I think it was Morley RT325 that taught me that method. 

Plates have kind of bonded themselves to the steels. Just remove them & separate then carefully seeing you're already in there. The pressure plate will lift as your looking at it but as I say the rest are stuck to each other. Perhaps give the steels a light sand if look like the shape of each grippy bit is showing on the steels. Could very very lightly do the same with the fibers then go ride it & enjoy. With DT250A I think that the pressure plate might need fitting in the right way or won't fit on the hub. Might be wrong but if there's 3 arrows there's likely 3 marks on the hub to give you guidance. You'll know straight away as won't go on to compress plates. Cheers from NZ.

Hi there
My bike was out action for 2 years. it all started fine but  when I get it into gear after releasing the clutch it stalls. I have checked the leaver and taken the side cover off there is some  movement on the plates. Not sure what else is wrong, as why the clutch not working and what is stuck !!!!
please help..
 Regards Alex





 

I had a nice 68, 70 and 71 DT1 all at the same time. Now comes along a 69. This bike is close to the 68. Has the 2 bolt ignition cover, long threaded dunlop rim locks, square swingarm, same paper air filter ( still good) and painted engine. ( which i like). 

I guess i will never be able to retire and stop working on these bikes. I have said I'm done 3 times now. Came across this 69 DT1-B 250. Looks good from 10 ft away. Looks to be all there and pretty much original which is what i like. The owner said it hasn't run in about 3 years. Has no spark, No battery but the gas tank and carburetor were drained and pretty much clean. 
I plan on making a nice rider out of it but i know how that will go? Money pit!  Paid to much for it but Oh well. Don't see many 69's around these days. 1st thing i did was pull the flywheel. what a mess on the condenser. Looks like someone tried to replace it. They didn't even bend the tabs over or down to hold the wires then solder it? So it bent the condenser mt and looks to be touching one of the coils or the flywheel hit it. Re-soldered the wires and straighten the condenser in place. cleaned the points and set the gap to 14thou. Nice spark at the sparkplug now. 

Took the Carburetor apart. The things you find with these old bikes! Look at the needle & seat. *(see picture) Never seen anything like it! plus the float arm was upside down. Look like someone modified the needle? I Installed a new set and cleaned the rest of the carburetor. Also was missing the setter jet o-ring and the pilot jet was plugged.  



Then i took the gas tank off and notice this strange looking long coil mounted to the lower frame bar under the gas tank. has 2 yellow wires connected to the 2 blue wires on the bike. Never have i seen something like this? Almost looks stock but i doubt it. Anyone seen one of these or knows what it is or does? see picture below.





Fuel Petcock was leaking all over the place so i have all new seals coming tomorrow so will see if it lights up and runs. Engine cranks over good, crank bearing has no play in it. Engine turns over nice and smooth. Hopefully top end is good. Feels like it has good compression. I do notice the clutch plates are stuck, hopefully they will break loose. Just want to get it running and test drive before taking the engine out and replacing clutch plates, all engine seals and gaskets. Also will vapor blast the cylinder and head. someone painted the cylinder, should be bare metal like the 68. Installed a battery, horn and brake lights work. That's a good thing. Until next time. 

 

1971 AT1 --- I'm well on my way to getting this bike trail-worthy (thanks to your help). BUT, when I filled the transmission case with oil, all of it slowly leaked out through what looks like the chain sproket area. I'll get a pic up here soon, but what advice do you have on what to do?  On the right side, I had taken apart the clutch and reassembled with a new kickstarter seal, and then put a new gasket on the right transmission case with Yamalube's appropriate sealant, but I have not touched anything deeper in the transmission (). 

I'm pretty sure the oil is coming from the sprocket area. How hard is it to change the seal there?
Thanks!

My ongoing to-do list:
--unfreeze clutch plates (Even with clutch pulled in I cannot disengage motor from tranny) DONE
--replace clutch adjustment screw (frozen. Perhaps I'm not getting enough clutch engagement which is causing the above) DONE
--fill gas tank with vinegar and flush out all the surface rust in interior DONE, but rust came back
--fix kick-starter. I think it is missing a shim, but it is getting stuck at the bottom of the stroke. Not a big deal, but annoying DONE
--do something with the front forks cause they are way too spongy.
--replace kick starter gear cause the teeth are somewhat chewed up NOT DONE -- Replacement I got was the wrong size, but the shim fixed it.
--replace/refit original tool kit
--get safety gear for riding
--Title/Register and ride

Whoo hoo! Got her running .I followed ya'll's advice and took the carb all back apart and used a piece of wire brush wire to push and prod as much as I could. The pilot jet is definitely NOT gonna come out though. It was so torn up by previous attempts that all I did was round it off more....but I did get all of the pieces cleaned up / out, and blew out everything with air.

Started right up. I don't have any experience w/ 2-stroke bikes and have only ridden a 4 stroke a handful of times. Anybody notice any weird noises or anything? It is idling ~1700-2000rpm without choke, so seems fine, right?

To do (I'll make separate posts if needed):
--unfreeze clutch plates (Even with clutch pulled in I cannot disengage motor from tranny)
--replace clutch adjustment screw (frozen. Perhaps I'm not getting enough clutch engagement which is causing the above)
--fill gas tank with vinegar and flush out all the surface rust in interior
--fix kick-starter. I think it is missing a shim, but it is getting stuck at the bottom of the stroke. Not a big deal, but annoying
--do something with the front forks cause they are way too spongy.
--replace kick starter gear cause the teeth are somewhat chewed up
--replace/refit original tool kit
--get safety gear for riding
--Title/Register and ride

I'm hoping I found the right page to find help with my issue.  I have rescued a 1976 DT125C from my stepfather's property.  I know that it had been sitting out for a couple of decades but I wanted a puzzle.  I'm trying to figure out if it is salvageable.  It is somehow locked up but I don't know where the issues is.  I got the jug off and the cylinder, piston and rings are in excellent shape.  I took the clutch cover off and the plates are fine.  I see a little rust in some places but nothing that would keep things from turning.  On the other side, I am stuck trying to remover the cover where the clutch cable passes through and that covers the drive sprocket.  I have removed the bolts but the cover is stuck fast! The clutch cable is stuck and won't move.  I'm not sure what position it's in as the chain is so rusted, the rear wheel won't budge.  I'm wondering if the clutch is pulled in, would that keep me from removing that cover?  Is there something else I'm missing?  I can't believe there would be more to disassemble to get to the drive sprocket.    I can't remove the engine to work on it because the rear engine mounting bolt pulls out behind the cover in question.  Let me know if you have any ideas.  I really want to make this scooter run again.