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73 CT3 175 clutch problems
- tsmitty1958
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73 CT3 175 clutch problems was created by tsmitty1958
Hi guys,
imgur.com/a/FGtWwX2
These pics are of two of my three CT3's and one of the clutch adjustment screw.
My problem is that on both of these, when I pull the clutch lever and put them in gear, the engine dies. So I know the clutch is not working correctly. I completly tore down both engines. New bearings and seals put back together and have this clutch issue.
Thick washer, collar and pinion gear, clutch basket, bearing washer, thin washer, clutch boss, friction, steel and the rubber cushions. Pressure plate and springs/screws.
Adjust clutch, pull lever in and the pressure plate moves. While closing the engine, I keep checking to make sure the clutch is working by pulling the lever, shift to first gear and spin the rear wheel. All good until I start the engine. Pull lever drop it into first and whumph...... dies.
This is happening on both bikes and it did not happen prior to tear down.
The push screw is out farther now than before taking it apart. The lock nut used to be almost recessed into the push screw housing now as you can see it's about a quarter of an inch away from the housing.
I have opened the clutch side ( drain oil, disconnect everything) and put back together six times. Before I do it again, any suggestions?
I have looked through all the posts here in regards to clutch problems and nothing changes.
Has to be something simple, right??
Tsmitty
imgur.com/a/FGtWwX2
These pics are of two of my three CT3's and one of the clutch adjustment screw.
My problem is that on both of these, when I pull the clutch lever and put them in gear, the engine dies. So I know the clutch is not working correctly. I completly tore down both engines. New bearings and seals put back together and have this clutch issue.
Thick washer, collar and pinion gear, clutch basket, bearing washer, thin washer, clutch boss, friction, steel and the rubber cushions. Pressure plate and springs/screws.
Adjust clutch, pull lever in and the pressure plate moves. While closing the engine, I keep checking to make sure the clutch is working by pulling the lever, shift to first gear and spin the rear wheel. All good until I start the engine. Pull lever drop it into first and whumph...... dies.
This is happening on both bikes and it did not happen prior to tear down.
The push screw is out farther now than before taking it apart. The lock nut used to be almost recessed into the push screw housing now as you can see it's about a quarter of an inch away from the housing.
I have opened the clutch side ( drain oil, disconnect everything) and put back together six times. Before I do it again, any suggestions?
I have looked through all the posts here in regards to clutch problems and nothing changes.
Has to be something simple, right??
Tsmitty
16 Mar 2026 09:00
#1
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- Gr8uncleal
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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic 73 CT3 175 clutch problems
Ball bearing(s) correct number and location?
16 Mar 2026 09:39
#2
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- tsmitty1958
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Replied by tsmitty1958 on topic 73 CT3 175 clutch problems
Yes. I have not tried new friction plates. I ordered them and will replace. While I'm at it I'll check to make sure there are no grooves worn on the basket. However, since the clutch was good before I can't see that as the issue.
16 Mar 2026 09:48
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- Dennis D
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Replied by Dennis D on topic 73 CT3 175 clutch problems
I can't see the pictures, but I don't recall any of the CT's I have had
that the adjustment screw was a quarter inch out. Close to flush is
what I usually see. Look and see if your clutch basket gear and the
crank gear are flush with each other. I figured out how to look at the
pictures. Did you have the clutch actuator out of the plastic housing?
that the adjustment screw was a quarter inch out. Close to flush is
what I usually see. Look and see if your clutch basket gear and the
crank gear are flush with each other. I figured out how to look at the
pictures. Did you have the clutch actuator out of the plastic housing?
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- tsmitty1958
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Replied by tsmitty1958 on topic 73 CT3 175 clutch problems
I agree almost flush is what I'm used to also. Yes I took the plastic housing apart to clean. I used to just turn the housing until it goes closer to flush but that is not working. If I get it that way, the crank housing won't butt up to the left side. It hits the push rod.
Thanks!
Thanks!
16 Mar 2026 11:15
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic 73 CT3 175 clutch problems
Needs to be a washer on BOTH sides of the flat thrust bearing. Parts diagram is misleading as only one is drawn.
(Make sure you aren't using TWO ball bearings in the clutch pushrod assembly as I think Alan mentioned.)
Only other suggestion I can think of is next time you take it apart, take detailed pictures of the part assembly order to help us see what you're seeing.
(Make sure you aren't using TWO ball bearings in the clutch pushrod assembly as I think Alan mentioned.)
Only other suggestion I can think of is next time you take it apart, take detailed pictures of the part assembly order to help us see what you're seeing.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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16 Mar 2026 11:20
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- tsmitty1958
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Replied by tsmitty1958 on topic 73 CT3 175 clutch problems
The thrust bearing is the flat "washer" with the needle bearings correct? I have no spare parts so if there is 2 washers, one on each side then the washer between the lock washer and the clutch hub wouldn't fit?
16 Mar 2026 11:40
#7
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- tsmitty1958
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Replied by tsmitty1958 on topic 73 CT3 175 clutch problems
Mark you are a life saver! I put the 3rd washer on the outside of the clutch boss. Head slap for me!!!
16 Mar 2026 11:49
#8
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