Yes and Yes. 

Glued only.  Yamaha still sells shoes or you can go aftermarket. 

Corrosion is what seems to cause the separation most of the time...  and it's not that you might lose the brakes...  it's that a loose pad will often lock a wheel.  If that happens on the front at nearly any speed chances are strong you will crash hard. 

Thanks MarkT, that's exactly what I was just thinking about. If they came loose I could end up doing an endo. I'm going to order new pads, and just from measuring the outside of the hubs it looks like I have the 130 mm rear and 110 mm on front. I think I'll refrain from riding until I get new tires and brake pads installed.

I'm having a hard time getting information on the brake shoes. I can find Vesrah VB 212 shoes, that I believe are for a 110 mm drum, but I just talked to Partzilla and they can't even find what part number for the rear, which I think are for a 130 mm drum. If anyone has the Vesrah part number for the rear shoes, I'd sure appreciate it. Or any alternatives?

Try these.  Or the brick and mortar dealers seem to have a printed catalog cross reference sheet that is not online.

 

 

“But after 50 years could the pads come loose from the shoe? “

The answer is absolutely yes. The photo below shows exactly how the rear brake assembly looked when I lifted it out of the hub/drum on my CT1C. I assume all the white powder is corrosion that caused the laminated fiber shoe to separate from the aluminum backer.



 

You guys have convinced me. I'm tracking down some brake pads as we speak.

I found sets of correct front and rear brake shoes with new springs on eBay, so those are ordered, and I just got a tracking update that my tires are now in Stockton CA. Keeping my fingers crossed that the next update isn't that they're in Florida!

Well, after a trip from Kentucky to California, then back to Missouri, then up to Oregon, some fresh rubber just rolled up to my front door.

I like how these Shinko 241 tires look! Very similar to the originals, but I think they're actually better. We'll see after I get them mounted, but can't do that until I get my brake shoes and rim strips, probably Monday. Yesterday I stripped the exhaust to bare metal and repainted it with hi-temp satin black BBQ paint. I also took off the super rusty toolbox, sanded that down and repainted it. Starting to look a lot better.

The tires look great Tom. Be aware that the BBQ paint washes off like water color paint if you spill gas on it. Other than that the paint holds up well.

Thanks for the info Schu, I guess I should have asked here first. You're absolutely right, I put a piece of aluminum that I had test sprayed in some gas, and it just comes right off. I thought BBQ paint would hold up to charcoal lighter fluid, which would be similar to gasoline.

What's the best paint, and if I just sand this down and paint over it, should that work? Of course I could take it down to bare metal again just by putting some gas on it...

 I also can't remember if these bikes originally had satin black pipes, or flat. This pipe was so rusty, I couldn't really tell. It seems to me they were actually flat black.