So a little background here. I made my 1st post on the forum back in may in the new user category. I am unable to access the link at this time to update. I have a 1971 CT1 Enduro that was running great until it wasn't. It seemed to have something jammed and would not kick over. I investigated and found one of the screws holding the Lighting coil had fallen out and damaged both the lighting and source coils. Thanks to the wonderful people on this forum I was able to locate both parts. The lighting coil arrived in a couple of days but the source coil had to come from Thailand and finally arrived 2 months later.

I have everything installed. Also new points and condenser. Cleaned up all of the wiring tested the coils and all connections and am trying to set the timing. I machined up a holder for the dial indicator and have TDC set and adjusted to 71 thousandths BDC. I think my problem is with the points. With a voltmeter set up to tone it is always on even when I open the points. I have tried every configuration I can think of but I cannot get the points to break the connection. I am 99% sure that it is not a bad connection just an incorrect one. I am completely stumped at this point. I know the points wire from the condenser needs to be isolated and I have tried it every way I can think of. If anyone can provide some input and/or photos I would greatly appreciate it. I will get some photos posted shortly.

Regards Bearman61

You're dealing with a points magneto system.  Your test method is flawed. Connection is never broken.  Difference in resistance between points open and points closed is in the 1 to 2 ohm range.

MarkT

That would explain a lot. I am electrically challenged so I struggle with this stuff. I will go back out to the shop and check it out. This is my first go around with this type of ignition. I will post an update shortly.

Regards

Bearman61

Bit worried that you say no spark in the heading, but am trying to set the timing. As Mark says regarding ohms reading!!, but just thinking providing they're opening some & closing then spark should be happening. So if its 'not', then accurate timing won't make it happen. Maybe i took the wrong meaning from the heading. Good luck.

Opening--moment of breaking--& closing--moment of contacting--you'll have to have good eyes to see the small variation in needle movement of an 'analogue' meter. But analogue is the way to go 'i think' & not sure what digital would show--suppose a variation in numbers?.

I use a cheap continuity tester, when the light blinks the points are just opening.

Right, you say your a stranger to this type of set up? Pull the mag off again and look at the set up as live (Points & condenser) and earth ( Back plate) and check the wire from the condenser is on the correct side of the insulator at the points . It should be nut, washer, connection, Insulator. It's the most uncomplicated way of explaining. A common mistake.
Shyted

I was trying to avoid posting a novel LOL. At the time I had not yet checked for spark but subsequently have. There isn't any. Everything is new except the primary ignition coil and the mag. I have a new coil but have not had a chance to pull the old one and test it yet. I was trying to get everything with the mag right before I moved on. The mag itself does not appear to have any damage from the loose screw. The key and the keyway look good and fit properly. Very frustrated right now, this electrical stuff drives me crazy, Give me a good old fuel problem anytime. I had to walk away from it for a while but will get back to it next weekend. Thank you and everyone else who has responded with suggestions. I will work through them until I figure this out.

Maybe post some detailed pictures of what you have when you get back to it. 

Couldn't hurt to clean the points too. 

on old bikes with breaker points the first place I go to look for trouble is the points themselves and a no spark problem is dirty points 9 out of 10 times. cleaning them with sand paper  often will restore the spark.