1971 DT1E clutch pulls hard. Springs measure within specs as do discs? Is this typical? Question 2: when kick starting the transmission shifts out of neutral?

I wouldn't say mine is over hard to pull in. Have good free lubed cable & well lubed worm "actuator". Some levers have a different amount of leverage if using an aftermarket lever, so if it's further from pivot point to where the cable nipple sits it'll be a harder pull with more lift.
regarding the second part of your question, i'm not sure what you mean. If you mean can it start in gear--then yes, providing your clutch frees up good. If you mean it falls into gear while kicking then 'no' that shouldn't happen. Been using my old dungga a bit lately just down to the farm as sits there until the fuel goes stale lol. Man it goes so good. Have a 32mm carb of a 360 on it come to think, for the last 40 years or so.
Edit to add--having another think. One of my 360's has a split actuator nylon worm & that expands & makes it a hard pull as it's being forced to expand more & tightly as it's trying hard to push the rod across. Not only 'that' but you loose half the movement as it won't start moving sideways until about half way up on the lever of the actuator. So you loose the ideal angle of pull for the cable. If there's nothing wrong with yours, then back the cable right off & take up the center adjuster as much as is safe to get the cable arm right back as far as possible. Then take up the slack on the cable. My guess though--is a slit actuator worm. Cheers.

But wait there's more lol. A 4 start steel RD400 or similar actuators are good to adapt in. They have a nylon outer & steel worm. I've done that on one of my 360's & works great. But i made a pigs ear of fitting it. So i'll let them that have done it correctly to put you on the proper path.

All of what RT said is right.
I'll add this-
Take your sprocket cover off and remove the clutch cable to inspect the worm gear. It may be 100% dry but OK! or it may be cracked and broken so you need to start there. Threads are on this site to show you how to adapt a different bike's worm gear assembly to your sprocket cover.

But if your worm gear is not jacked, then it's cleanup & lithium lube time, clean the assembly up and lube it right, take apart & lube all clutch cable pivot points, and, take apart clean & lube the clutch lever pivot bolt. Then make sure the cable is routed correctly, through the middle point between the bars & top triple clamp, then past the left gas tank front mount and smoothly to the sprocket cover. All this to lessen the pull to an acceptable level, but, there is only so much you can do. My fingers regularly ache from clutch use of my '71 DT1.