Hey guys.

Are the ignition lock steering lock and tank cap lock meant to work off the same key ?

Certainly on later bikes, the same key is used for ignition and petrol cap (if locking), but the steering lock might use a different, smaller one.

Hey when a mod sees this can they change this thread title to. Yamaha 5LT restoration thanks.

I just messed around a bit after work and had a go at polishing rust out of chrome and the paint work. I think it might scrub up good enough to leave patina for a while.

Pulled the cylinder and piston and rings are in great nick. The cylinder exhaust port was fairly carboned up and the head was bad too. Electrode on spark plug was a bit melted so it must have been detonating but piston is fine.

Polished the speedo glass which is acrylic so used some meguiars which removed the scratches and haze.

Had a spare speedo cable so threw that in old one was rusted stuck

Even the rims that I thought were beyond saving scrubbed up pretty good. I’ll eventually get them re chromed and buy new spokes.

It is always nice to see these old abandoned bikes coming back to life. A big labor of love, but a just reward when it crackles back to life and powers itself around the neighborhood. I follow with interest!

Wel today I got a battery and the trouble shooting begins.

First problem was ignition key was not doing anything. It was very loose so I pulled it apart. The little spring tensioned ball bearings that engage the bumps were missing. So I bought a few 3/16 balls to replace. Also the contacts were badly pitted so I sanded them on sheet glass and stretched the springs a little as they’d lost their tension. Then I had to find new insulators for the springs so that the springs don’t short out the switch as it controls 12v live. Luckily I had some very small m3 nylon washers to use. All back together and checked with multi meter works perfectly and nice firm engagement between off position 1 and position 2.

Also bought some phosphoric acid to treat the tank. Then washed it out with water and then methylated spirits to absorb any moisture and prevent flash rusting.

Bought some new fuel hose. Here in Australia victa mower fuel line is a pretty darn close match to the original Yamaha and it’s only 5 a meter. So will run new line from fuel tap to carb. cleaned out the fuel tap

Need to crimp solder some new battery terminals and then ready to do some more electrical trouble shooting.

Had a break and did a bit more. Went and ordered a few parts from Yamaha. Oil level lens and fuel tap and a few other things.

Installed battery terminals. So good the L5T manual has a wiring diagram!

SO once I repaired the ignition switch I had power. the Idiot lights turned on hooray. But the starter wouldn’t work. So I pulled they apart. Contacts dirty but also dry solder joint. Back together now I have a working starter !

Great progress, keep it going!

Nice work!

Well removed the broken levers. Got tripped up by a little bushing that I had to tap out. Also freed up the seized choke lever.

Pulled the rear wheel to do the wheel bearings seals and the rear tyre and rim. Thankfully pretty tidy inside not much rust!

Will get new tyres and wheel bearings and seals maybe tomorrow.

Stripped the wheels for new tyres.

Replaced wheel bearings and seals and cleaned them up a bit.

Pulling parts and just removing dirt and grease and rust quickly with a wire brush to make it a bit more presentable.

Will have to dismantle and rebuild the forks because they’re leaking and they need new boots hopefully not much else.

Probably should do steering head while I’m at it.

Will give the rims a once over with the wire brush the steel wool takes forever.

I have ordered a bunch of parts from Yamaha so looking forward to getting those because it means I can get the bike running and see how it goes. Will need a gear lever first however haha


Otherwise it’s starting to look kind of presentable.