#10 (LOL) no I mean begin and end with a fiber, pull the steel out that sits closest to the gear (inside) then the last fiber wont be sticking out.  Again, I've only done one clutch so take it for what it's worth...

Ok lol, but i'm sure he's not got a steel in first as the back of the hub is designed to not need one. Its full size for the fiber to drive on. But if your right & he 'did' put one [although he said started with a fiber] then yep that'd give you a bit more to play with. All good banter but hope he comes back with good news. Cheers.

Looking at the pictures again, I don't think he's put the clutch springs in yet, and I'll bet once the basket is installed and the clutch springs are on, it'll look fine. In the pictures it's just being held together like a cheeseburger.

By the way when I did mine recently, I saw it was recommended to let the friction plates soak in tranny oil for a couple hours before assembling it. That's the "secret sauce" for the cheeseburger.

I like cheeseburgers lol. & fries with that.

Then fries will plug yer clutch… Xtra mustard on mine please!
Sneezles61

Hi all really appreciate your advice, my apologies 
for late reply im a training doctor so hours very long
I will remove one friction  plate then up load the 
Pictures and see what everyone is thinking..
cheers everyone 

 Picture one is the original basket but previous person
lost the face plate and some how managed to break it
Aswell.... I check the numbers on both and there the same
Picture 2 is the washer I removed and Picture 3 is how it 
Looks now.... any ideas what effect it will have without 
That washer?? Cheers




  

Top marks for taking on becoming a Doctor. We need more Doctors in NZ but trouble is they make you jump through hoops once you arrive.
Ok, if i'm understanding--pic3 bottom pic for me is with washer removed. & it looks good--or as good as you'll get!! & first plate in is at the end of the basket fingers. Trouble is you need a washer. If your desperate--ok we're desperate--as you've run out of option as things stand, so it may not hurt running without a washer providing the hub can revolve & NOT revolve touching the alloy of the basket--just touch the steel insert you can see which is part of the basket that the centre spacer turns in. The hub will be bolted sold against the spacer. On the face of it i don't think it'll work, sorry to say. In pic3 is the pressure plate safely located on the hub by its driving splines [call them splines--run out of names]. Just want to be sure its located & not driving on the spring posts. Of course it has to lift a little to free the plates when the clutch is disengaged, but still stay on those hub splines. Ideally it needs fibre's that are thinner. 1mm on each would probably do it & give you 5mm to play with. One thing to remember is when that centre nut is tightened, the hub must be able to spin freely before inserting the plates. I'm out of ideas with what you have i'm sorry. Hope someone else can think with a clear head & not full of years of rubbish like mine haha.

More thinking--& without that washer you might end up with the shaft protruding through the hub so the nut won't be able to tighten against the hub & just tighten to the shaft splines.

Here's a picture of your clutch system.  I "believe" that washer is #4, your clutch wont work properly without it, or at all!