Need some help here
Not familiar with 2 strokes at all, and it's starting to drive me nuts.
So we have an RT3 and for the time being I'm hooking the Black mag wire direct to the coil.
I had the bike running at one point then after I stopped it it wouldn't go again...turned out the sparks went on holiday?
Since then I've had the flywheel on and off a few times, spun it enough times to have ridden miles...sometimes the spark returns but just when it seems all is well and I go to start it again, there's nothing...again
I guess I'll have to find some specs and start checking things with a meter, but wondering if someone may be able to shed some light on the possible problem?
I would have thought condenser or coils would either be going or not going, period?

could be dirty breaker points and or bad condenser.

My first thought was bad condenser or short/loose wire connection of same. But the points are the easiest to check: drag a business card or a worn out piece of 600 sandpaper across each face a couple of times and see what happens. Then check your condenser.

I had a 1976 Honda Accord that I shipped to San Juan when I got a job playing in their symphony, and its points/condenser system did not like the humidity, it seemed. I drove around with a glove box full of condensers, and two or three times a month, I'd be beside the road replacing the condenser.

I agree with checking the points and timing first. Since you have had the flywheel off, what was the condition inside? How is the cam surface? Pitting of that will eventually wear away the points rubbing block and alter the timing. Add a drop of oil to the felt next time, and some points grease if you can get some (getting harder to find now) at the rubbing block.

Condenser?? Maybe. If I was rebuilding at this point and it had never been replaced, then sure. Also I would be looking at the various connection points, even re-terminating them if they look dodgy.

Could be a coil. I had one recently causing a weak, intermittent spark. I too thought a coil would be all or nothing, good or bad. Apparently they can be weak enough not to run but still produce a half-assed, intermittent spark.

You might check continuity on the movable arm of the points. I just had trouble with the points on an AT2 I’m working on. There was a bunch of dirt and oil that got down in the insulation pieces that was causing it to ground out to the mounting plate sometimes. I disassembled the points and cleaned everything up and had good spark afterwards. When holding the points open you should be able to touch the movable arm with one test lead and ground to the other and have no signal. If there is a signal to ground when the points are open there’s probably trouble with the wire, the connections or insulators. The connection needs to be isolated from everything except the spring on the movable arm.

Thanks for the replies
Hadn't received any notification of replies, but just checked in and there's heaps? I think when I edited the post I should have also re-checked the receive notifications box?
Points cam on the flywheel, (and the surfaces in general) was pretty rusty, have given it a clean up now.
Reckon I'll buy new points and condenser first and see what happens then.
Will check the points themselves for continuity.
Wires certainly appear to be intact and not shorting.

Only buy new points, plugs, coils and condensers from a source that you REALLY trust - there are loads of fakes and just generally crap stuff out there now. New old stock (nos) can usually be trusted and Daiichi points are usually good. Hopefully others will chime in with other decent aftermarket manufacturers.

Even with new points, give the faces a clean - a favoured method is to place a piece of white card between them and keep on pulling through until no dirt is shown on the card.