My CT1C clutch still slips a bit going into 5th gear. I have changed out all of the plates metal and fibers as well as replaced the springs with NOS OEMs.I have 10w30 ClutchSaver oil for MCs in it. Maybe just need some more breaking in. I have not had a chance to ride it much.

Aftermarket AT1 - CT1 CLUTCH FRICTION PLATES ARE FINE. VESERAH 

I HAVE TWO NEW SETS PURCHASED SOME TIME AGO 

Not only are they fine in my opinion they are recommended by Captain Dave Rymal.

any questions ?

asco

That's Very interesting & thanks for the post. Gotta keep that water in the battery.
Not sure [in my own mind] how the idle & battery relate but sure willing to learn.
I can justify turning lights on causing more magnetic drag to slow an already slow idle.
Just wonder if compression is up to speed or if points have closed up a bit retarding things. Maybe i'm retarded lol as everything's closing up.
Have a Happy NewYear when it gets here. Think we get it first in NZ so we win lol.

"Not sure [in my own mind] how the idle & battery relate"

I assumed that because the magneto is not charging the system at idle. and a battery with low electrolyte, turning on the lights lowered the overall voltage and weakened the spark - causing the stall. When I turned off the lights, it idled fine again. Now, with the battery electrolyte level good, it idles fine again with the lights on.

I think the battery was getting low, and after changing the oil to 10w/30 I've made 4 or so high speed rides testing the clutch, and that's what finally dropped the battery level too low. I hadn't checked it for several months... my fault.

Interesting.

Battery not needed for spark, so wonder why putting lights on makes a difference. Also, headlight runs off it's own coil, with only the tail light working off the battery.

Clearly something was occurring, though. 

Are the lighting ground and coil ground on the same bolt?

The lighting ground and coil ground are stock. However, I ran a wire from the headlight bucket to the tail light so it's on the magneto too. I did that early on, when I was trying to diagnose things. However, I can switch it back to the battery, and may do that now. That could be the reason it stalled, in addition to the low battery?

This is odd. I switched back to the battery for the tail light, but now the brake light doesn't work, with either the foot or hand brake. Switched the tail light back to magneto, and the brake light works fine LOL! However, it doesn't stall engine now to turn on the lights, and that time the other day was the only time the engine has ever stalled when turning on the lights. Again, after numerous high speed runs, which probably boiled down the battery.

Laughing at RT325"s post,, i"v done that, have a TS250 and the sprocket seal leaked bad,,so i filled it with EP90 gear oil, [ Differential type stuff ] worked a treat till i got seal done,,it grabbed a bit wen cold, worked fine tho, no slip,

Flywheel magnetos run on "black magic"  
(There is some truth to that)

Ground issues have caused similar problems so good call there.  Never heard of low water in the battery causing it though.

The other reality is that the magnets are fixed strength and spinning them around the coils can only provide so much power.  That "magnetic flux" for lack of a better term is shared so technically there is more power for spark with the lights off.

(I have seen a magneto with weak flywheel magnets lose spark with lights on.   A new flywheel fixed it.)

It's a super-simple system physically...  not so simple electrically.  I've been told only a handful of electrical engineers in the world truly understand how these old "balanced" systems work from a design standpoint and how the different loads affect and interact with the system as a whole. 

More modern systems are designed with "excess power" and use electronics to regulate the voltage...  they couldn't do that economically in the 1970's so the older systems are somewhat of an engineering marvel to me. 

Early systems on some, but not sure if all, magicaly earthed the ignition source into the lighting windings.
I don't know where i'm going with that statement but maybe a clue to whats going on with lights & idle--who know.
Someone said once its to boost spark at revs but no idea 'how it does that' but gotta be a reason.
Thinking back to my YZ490 which had a CDi of course but had a small piggyback source coil onto the main one & cdi box with that extra wire.
When that coil packed up i used a scooter cdi box & just the main source coil.
Worked perfect for the ten years or so we had it.
Never short of power & revved hard too.
But i now wonder if i was missing another 20 horses through eliminating the high speed coil.
Electrics eh!!, never ending disgussions.