I guess way to late to be helpful but the two wire emgo coil pictured above appears to be 12 volt. It list all the bikes it suits & i know all those are 12 volt battery powered. There 'is' single wire original yamaha coils that look the same but different color. Should be endless single wire AC magneto coils out there for little cost but with a different mounting. Anyway--old Yamy coils go forever. Looking again the other links are in with a chance.
Just googling away & how cheap can they make a coil. Gotta be a cdi coil as single wire so not dc, crazy cheap & too cheap not to try on something.
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000559898687.ht...-b34c-3a64e5da1cbe-8

Yes, the "ebay" coil is not correct for a magneto model. 

Thanks RT, I figured that as well. I went for the one on Amazon which is a one wire 6v or 12v application and had been recommended by Mark and others. I don’t think any advice will be too late as this is an ongoing struggle, parts take forever to arrive and I only have a few hours after work to troubleshoot. I’ll certainly be update on this post when Sweet blue Shazam arrives. 

So, the Emgo coil arrived. I fashioned a bracket, cut a few hundred feet off the incredibly long coil wire, installed the new NGK resister cap, (non resister arriving tomorrow)and gave it a good solid kick. I did get spark but it was short lived. Got a few orange-ish sparks the nothing. Removed mag again then points. Carefully sanded points until the gleamed like brushed nickel then reinstalled with Mag. Still no spark. At this point seems I should go ahead and replace the points and condenser. Yes the key was on. Anybody think I should try something different?

Starting to wonder about the source coil where it all starts from. I won't teach you bad habits but i did once run an yamy 100 via the lighting coil lowest output wire. If all else fails i could describe how to do it as a test but would need to isolate the source coil by cutting or un-soldering the wire where it goes to the condenser. Forget you read this in the mean time. Points source coils don't have much resistance. My old workshop bible, the nearest i can get is ATMX which only used the trail bike mag complete with lighting coils going nowhere. Says 2.1 ohms for the ignition source coil. So something close i'd think. I don't know how many ac volts you'd expect if you were to hook a meter to the black out of the mag loom but isolating the points, i guess slide something between them slightly bigger than 15 thou, but then what about condenser. So back to the start. If ya replacing points & condenser why not test the output while condenser & points are removed. The coil wire & black would need joining at removed condenser to do this so you can connect the meter to the mag loom away from spinning things then give her a kick. Flywheel wouldn't need to be tight but just firm. Blimey sorry about the essay.

You should probably start with some measurements. If points are closing properly and clean, you should have zero ohms, closed. When open, 1.5-2.5ohms. If you disconnect the condenser, and measure resistance, it should show a brief continuity, then go infinite resistance. If you have a meter with capacitance the condenser should be around ,22 microfarad. The source coil is where the 1.5-2.5 ohms come from. It is simply 70-80ft of copper wire wound around a laminated iron core. However, the insulation used is a very thin coating of lacquer, and it can break down with age. If the wire is unbroken, and not directly shorted, it will show the correct resistance. If the insulation has begun to break down but the wires do not actually touch, a resistance reading will show correctly, but as the voltage builds inside the windings, the current can jump across the weak insulation and the coil will not develop the 200-300 volts needed for the secondary coil to spark. You can measure this if you have a meter with a 1millisecond update time. (the 200-300volts spike is only for 2-3milliseconds) I found this problem on my CT2. After replacing the source coil, I unwound the old coil and found the area where the breakdown occurred. (Also measured the length of the wire in case i might rewind a new one).
Alnarv

I installed a new cir clip on the shift shaft and it is nice and tight........(old cir-clip had visable wear on it).

Dog arm has good contact and seems to stay on track.

However, I realized that I am missing one pin dowl  ........ :(.    Looking on partzilla, I see one "special shape" pin (part 10) and four regular ones (part 9).      I am going to order all of them because they are relatively cheap.   

Question:  Is there is anything special about installing these pins that I need to be aware of?

 

Quick update. Changed the point and condenser and voila, spark! What a relief! Carb is blocked so no fuel getting through. Family, margaritas and fajitas tonight so no opportunity to dig in Further. I love family but damn! Thankfully it’s Labor Day weekend so we’ll see if this is a runner. 

Aha worse things than family, margaritas and fajitas to stop the progress! Sounds like you'll have it going in no time.

The joy was short lived. Thoroughly cleaned the carb but wouldn’t start. Confirmed carb bowl is filled. Put some premix is a squirt bottle and sprayed in carb. It did fire and run briefly with some heavy smoke Then nothing. Plug was wet so used  a second plug to check. Again no spark. Seeing a decent amount of oil has collected below stator. My guess is both crank seals are bad, oil has probably coated the points and I’m like losing vacuum. Ordered new seals and O ring. Good news that the engine sounded good.