Hello Everyone. Firstly, any advice here is greatly appreciated. And yes, I have first done a search on the forum for my answer.

I picked up a 1971 RT1 360 a few months ago. Long story short I was told the bike was a runner but when I got there the guy selling it couldn't get it started so he sold it to me for $1k. After adjusting the points and kicking it about 80 times it now starts within the first couple kicks. I've since been going through and fixing small stuff, put a new carb on, resealed the header into the cylinder, etc. etc.

When it came to the first clutch cover removal, the plastic helical actuator guide was destroyed. I have not sorted the clutch itself but the bike ran fine before I took it apart. I ordered an XS actuator off the internet that has the metal guide and actuator and retrofitted the existing case to accept. Here is where I need help: now that I have done the actuator swap I cannot adjust the actuator enough to move the clutch. When I can squeeze the lever all the way the rear wheel is not free when I try to push even if the bike is warm. When I keep adjusting it the lever becomes unusable and tight before the clutch engages. Can someone enlighten me on a proper adjusting protocol for this retrofitted setup? Do I need a spacer or some other mod to make the actuator rod push earlier? Different clutch cable with more travel? Any advice greatly appreciated, will post photos soon.

Can you post a picture of what you installed?

I've experimented with some of the XS650 actuators.

Also if item # 13 in the parts listing is missing you will not be able to adjust the actuator or cable. This little ball bearing can fall out if the clutch rod is removed and the bike is leaning on the kickstand.

Welcome. Yep pics will be good. Just wondering if the bike's been sitting for so long that the clutch is stuck together--fibers to steels. Happens when left parked for a year or so & good idea to tie the lever back to the bar to stop that happening but of course we never do lol. You say it ran fine so did that mean ran down the road or just sitting still running. Maybe i'm misunderstanding but this'll get others chiming in. "If" it's as i suspect, & you feel it's lifting the clutch but not freeing--just start it & run down the drive & jump on & hook first then head of into second & go off & on the throttle or just go ride it up in a higher gear until it frees. That's with the lever held back. But don't get a fright if it suddenly frees if ya going over rough stuff. If i';m heading down the wrong path then we'll start again.

Here's a pic of mine, ugly as it is. Had nothing to start with but found some heavy alloy. I'll tidy it oneday lol. Now where's mums good alloy cooking pot i need for a mag cover!!. My actuator i thing is RD350 but same as yours with the steel encased nylon outer & 4 start actuator. New oiled cable made from a chinese scooter rear brake by memory. Can pull it in with one finger, perfect. Bikes a conglomeration of bits so here it is for a laught but goes like stink, about 280cc.Here's a pic of mine, ugly as it is. Had nothing to start with but found some heavy alloy. I'll tidy it oneday lol. Now where's mums good alloy cooking pot i need for a mag cover!!. My actuator i thing is RD350 but same as yours with the steel encased nylon outer & 4 start actuator. New oiled cable made from a chinese scooter rear brake by memory. Can pull it in with one finger, perfect. Bikes a conglomeration of bits so here it is for a laught but goes like stink, about 280cc.

sorry double post of the text which seems to happen if i add the photos after writing bit in the same post?. Think if i add the pics then write the story it doesn't happen. 'Mako' 'administrator' might correct me please.

Happens when you use "insert all" function to insert photo(s).  If you use the "insert" function next to each photo the text doubling won't happen.

MAUSER would be good to know what yours was off if you remember sometime. Just looks the perfect job.

Hi thanks for the quick responses. Here is a pic of my bike, some of my process, and the part I used.

 

I basically drilled the stock hole over using a 26mm hole saw

 

then I flushed up the back

 

then i tapped two holes that are offset so they dont interfere with the bolt holes for the little cover.

I have not removed the clutch push rod but I will remove it and make sure the little bearing is still in there. And yes I probably put 5 or 6 low speed street miles on the bike before I did the conversion, so even if the clutch isnt in race-ready condition it should not be stuck (hasnt been sitting for more than a couple weeks at a time). I will get into it again this evening and see what I can do. Thanks!

Here is my bike: 

and here is the part that I used:

 

 

Can you post a picture of the sprocket cover off of the bike with the actuator installed and the cable hooked up? Looks like the actuator arm has no offset and will not line up with the hole that the cable goes through.