Poor old thing. It's a mixture motor i never did fully finish as no clutch actuator or mag cover & no kickstart. I had originaly run it down the road & it fair turned on but can barely remember it now thanks to more head injuries lol. Anyway, had a clutch actuator off an RD350 or similar. Wasn't looking forward to making something but thick alloy mount is strong & works perfect. New madeup cable & the actuator is a 4 start so not sure if that makes it lighter but is nice. I'll tidy up the mess oneday so it looks respectable. Then had to make a kickstart to miss the folded up footrest & swing arm bolt & brake pedal stop to get a good swing. Have some good arc rods for things like that. So that works perfect.
Motor by the way ihas a 360 crank & DT1MX top end so whatever 70x70 makes in cc. Carb looks like a 32 or 34 of a TS400, They have the long mouth for the filter hose.. Had to space the cylinder up 6mm for stroke difference but looks like 5mm plate under it & sort of remember juggling the ring 'just' appearing in the inlet port at bdc so probably compromised or took a mm of the piston crown, cant remember. Cylinder needed boring i know. Anyway, she started & sounded angry lol. So did a couple of laps down the road & its damn scary. Seem far quicker than it should be. Frame is R5 350 from 1970. Has long stroke type power pretty much pulling from nothing but turning on more & more with no limit so could blow at any moment. Pretty high geared too. Front brake works good too which nearly caught me out grabbing a handfull like my DT1. 

Poor old thing. Id a mixture motor i never did fully finnish as no clutch actuator or mag cover & no kickstart. I had originaly run it down the road & i fair turned on but can barely remember it now thanks to more head injuries lol. Anyway, had a clutch actuator off an RD360 or similar. Wasn't looking forward to making someting but thick alloy & strong & works perfect. New madeup cable & the actuator is a 4 start so not sure ifthat makes it lighter but is nice. I'll tidy up the mess oneday so it looks respectable. Then had to make a kickstart to miss the folded up footrest & swing arm bolt & brake pedal stop to get a good swing. Have some good arc rod for things like that. So that works perfect.
Motor by the way ihas a 360 crank & DT1MX top end so whhatever 70x70 makes in cc. Carb looks like a 32 or 34 of a TS400, they have the long mouth for the filter hose.. Had to space the cylinder up 6mm for stroke difference but looks like 5mm plate under it & sort of remember juggling the ring appearing in the inlet port so probably compromised or took a mm of the piston crown, cant remember. Cylinder needed boring i know. Anywat, she started & sounder angry lol. So did a couple of laps down the road & its damn scary. Seem far quicker than it should be. Frame is R5 350 from 1970.

 

Oh, & had to fix the broken axle in my sisters mower. That was a new experience getting into a hydrostatic transmission. Surprisingly its still going after two lawn mowings--big lawns plus wide side of the road. Outrigger bearing had long gone for the long right side axle so broke inside the housing of the trans. Sorry, not relative to Yamaha i know. Oh wait--but it has a Yamy big end roller centering the two axle halves so i could weld it straight. Well that's another story as the weld pulled as i expected. Zapped it on 4 sides first but it still got away. So had to press it straight but go past straight then put it in my little old lathe & found the high point & one tap bought it perfect or near eough. Not what ya meant to do on a lathe--but!!. Still waiting for it to break haha.


  

Rt325, whats with the light on the bike?, I hope your not planning to round up the cows at dusk down where that Suzuki thingy spat you off. Anyway, always enjoy your posts.
Questions regarding welding kick start: what type/grade arc welding rods did you use? and what steel (grade) are the kick start levers generally made from? I think I might need to adjust one myself.
Thanks

Haha, yeah, light only to fills a gap. Doubt i've got a lighting coil in the mag. Was looking at the light & glass was way around which is annoying. So pulled 4 clips & set it right, then after twice down the road it'd moved around again. Vibration does strange things 'even though its not too bad' & had no chance of forcing it without releasing the clips. Should have a raised lump that locates but doesn't have for some reason.
Anyway--i'll check out the rod in the morning for type etc. Reminds me of rods i used called Phillips 56 i think, back in the "60's & welded my broken gearbox main shaft on my BSA B33. That shaft was high grade steel where kickstart's are malleable iron 'i think it's called' that you can bend without breaking--'a certain amount anyway'. Mower axle i welded was pretty hard but machined ok from center out but got hard at the surface, The rod doesn't spark when grinding if i remember right although didn't need to grind the mower axle to find out this time. Real nice to weld with but more expensive than general purpose rods. Think rods were listed as suitable for dissimilar metals. I used to have an oxy acetylene set up too as made about 10 chamber exhausts over the years. Most looked better than the one on this bike lol. Cost of gas & renting the bottles is prohibitive nowdays to mostly have sitting around not being used but do miss it though. With the rod, it comes up shiny & the flux jumps off by its self mostly so have to be careful not to go looking closely inspecting the weld until it's settled or you've given it a tap to hurry the flux off.

Took a few pic after i turned the rubbish tin out looking for what i tore off haha. Then i googled for info below.
www.weldwire.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/E312-16.pdf
www.weldwire.net/weld_products/ww312-16/
 

Thanks RT - will look into getting some so appreciate the effort.
Not that I had given it much thought, but, I had kind of assumed(with little knowledge why)that the metal they use for kicksart levers would be not so suitable to weld.
Cheers