Hope she all goes to plan now clutch is operating. The unusual dented washer is a worry--but anyway--hope flat needles have something hardened to bear on on both sides. Best of luck.
I keep seeing that rusty crank haha, she's a beauty.

The Service Manual has good instructions with a minimum dimension with clutch pulled. I'm not sure yours will work right as arm looks too close to cable holder unless you took pic with lever on handlebar pulled all the way.

I'm not a fan of the 74-76 design... you do have to fiddle with it and follow the factory instructions for dimensions or it will often drag or slip.

Stock cable should have inline adjuster.

If it works though you should be ok.

     i am going to try get the push rod out this weekend then i can measure it as something isnt right do things look right from these pics ?

Good to see the hardened steel washer outboard of the flat needles as i think it should be--has to be.
Correct me when you find out--but-- i said before--the long rod in any pics i've found looks fatter & rounded on both ends. I know its only a drawing & these parts drawing can be dodgy--but if its correct it won't come out from the clutch side as is too fat. Happy to be wrong though.
I thought you had the clutch lifting now?.
With the adjuster--you do have it set so it's lifted the lifter arm as high as it'll go? as that sets the arm 'back' as far as possible by 'that' adjustment.

Assembly order of clutch looks correct to me too.

I think I asked about friction plate thickness...  pretty sure yours should be 4mm. They sell identical shape plates that are only 3mm thick for later models.  

I'm really not sure on the ball in the linkage because Yamaha did some switching back and forth in those years...  early years had a ball and then they didn't and then then did again and then they didn't.  Plus they had part list updates.   But it does look like your pushrod is above the end of the shaft (without the lever pulled?) so it's likely you're ok. 

If I were to drill a hole just under the adjusting mechanism could I extract it from here without any issues ?

Now thats clever if it works & has room to do it without breaking into the adjuster thread. must be close.not sure what you'll achieve by extracting it unless you find its not an original rod fitted, but would be good to find that at least.

  think this is at max setting ? 

I guess so. Looks like quite a gap under the spring & arm well back.
Does it not start lifting the pressure plate from there?--moves forward heaps before lifting?.
The setup looks a bit different to how i imagined. Didn't realize you could see in there like that. Thought it'd be all cast in & not visible like bigger motors.

 It starts to move the mushroom but not the pressure plate . If I could put something in the pressure plate like this it would save me getting the other rod out . I would just like to know what the problem is