Stack should start with a friction and end with a steel, parts diagram is incorrect. (Not your issue though)

How thick are the friction discs?

Does inner basket spin free with discs removed?

Mark maybe i shouldn't have put that parts pic on page one although was only for pushrod refference.
But i can see his stack starts & ends with a friction, so i'm sort of guessing his pressure plate is splined to take pace of the steel. Getting interesting lol & i could be 'up the creek'.

so this was how it was assembled when i took it apart originally . thrust bearing and shim then thicker washer . does this look right ? .   

  mushroom rod is about 62mm long . i need to get the other rod out to measure that ?? any ideas ? crank was beyond help. found a replacement and cleaned up the casings ok. generator side was all intact pretty good really replaced points etc .

Hmm--flat bearing need the thin washer [which is part of it] to protect the rollers from damage. But also needs another thicker big hardened washer for the other side of the flat bearing to run against. Will need to sit against the end of the spacer. I don't see the big washer!!, but what is the small 'stray' washer?
Think i'd better let MarkT help me [& you] out before i send you astray.
Also thinking any thick washer 'added' there will upset other things to do with where the clutch fibers sit--unless the washer is already sitting in behind the basket in which case moving it to the front will only sit the basket back a bit. I'm getting lost. Maybe pull the basket & lay out what's behind for Mark to see!!.
Or is there room on the spacer to add a hardened steel washer up on the spacer aong with the flat bearing including its thin washer. Seems plenty of spacer protruding.

according to the parts diagram only the thrust bearing and the thinner washer go on the main shaft then the clutch plate carrier and tab washer and nut . should i follow this part of the parts diagram but start the stack with a friction plate then steel etc ? does anyone have a picture of the actuator arm with cable connected in its resting position so i can rule out the wrong cable etc. thanks..

Sorry keep editing, i'll post then sit back & look at it.
Just to bring this pic forward to this page--well found a new one on impex japan but same pic.
Just to talk about washers. In your latest pic i see #17 at the back, so that's ok.
Then it shows the flat bearing #3 where it should be but the thin washer isn't drawn 'because its part of it'.

Thin washer goes against the bearing as you're looking at it in the pic, so it protects the needles from the cast center in the basket where basket runs on the spacer.
Then the other side of the needles run against #4.

Then shows #4 which will be a bit thicker but looking at the drawing it'll sit against the spacer not up on it--which makes sense to me as wouldn't have the alloy hub tightened against the spacer.
Ignore the clutch plate layout in the pic. Also have you got a splined pressure plate?? 

It does not look right to me. I'm not able to reply in much more detail right now but RT325 is correct, the thin washer is part of the flat bearing and is NOT drawn in the parts diagram.

Hardened washer should have same OD as flat bearing and thin washer, yours looks smaller OD. There should also be washer under tall spacer/bushing that has the smaller OD. #17 in diagram. I think it's also thinner. Someone may have mixed up 17 and 4

   i have the right washers in the right order now thanks guys. however the problem persists. i have fitted this tempary spacer on the cable and this is where the actuator arm needs to be at rest . pull the lever now and the clutch seems fine ?

There is a diagram in the manual with dimensions on where the arm should be located when adjusted correctly... pretty sure there is anyway. I will try to look later. What you did looks close though. I am still looking for my 74-75 cable to measure too.