Rubber rings aren't gaskets...  and yes, clutch won't hold if you didn't install them right.  I also toss them.

Check adjustment too. 

Is the cable hung up or sitting on top of the case at the bottom. Back off the actuator adjustment to feel clearance if cable adjusters have clearance. otherwise its internal

No the cushion rings are NOT going to cause that kind of slippage if any at all....as long as you have the clutch assembled right.

I just got done rebuilding a 71 CT175 engine and installed all new clutch plates, clutch springs, KDI reproduction clutch cable, Push rod 1 and i "reinstalled" the old cushion rings and the clutch works flawless. Butter smooth, easy pull at the lever and no slippage or drag what so ever. 
 If you know for sure you have the clutch back together correctly then check all your adjustment points and adjust according to the service manual. 

I took it all apart again..... Double checked every part against the manual.   Nothing seems out of place to me.

Fired it up and she did the same thing.

One question, I put synthetic oil in the crank (stated it was OK for wet clutch applications)....any chance that would cause it to slip so much?

 

No, but what brand and viscosity oil did you put in the engine?  Did you back off the bolt set so it's not snug or tight ( no 25 & 26 ) like RT325 mentioned? 

What manual or information are you using to check your assembly of the clutch? The parts diagrams are wrong.

Here is an illustration that is correct on the clutch plates installed. Hard to get the cushion rings in there wrong unless your doing something really incorrect ? Just make sure they are not twisted when installing them over the clutch boss. 

friction>cushion>steel>friction>cushion>steel>friction>cushion>steel>friction>cushion>steel>friction>cushion>steel, then pressure plate.

 

 

Would like to see pictures of the clutch as you take it apart if you go in there again.  Those rubber rings can definitely cause slipping if not installed correctly... and they can be tricky sometimes.  

And again, check adjustment first...  you had the pushrod sticking out pretty far if I remember. 

Also on that model you need to start the stack with a friction and end with a steel going in last.  That likely wouldn't be the problem but the diagrams are drawn wrong.  Also make sure you didn't misplace a steel or something.  Should be 5 and 5.



 

Skydancer:

- Valvoline 20W50 Synthetic FS Oil

- I am using this manual that I downloaded from the forums tech area:

 

I installed the clutch plates & friction plates in a different order this last time as I saw that it was different in the parts diagram (like you said) .....I reinstalled them with a friction plate last (touching the pressure plate).  It made no difference in how the bike acted but I will reinstall per the diagram you provided.

?    I am confused on the advise on backing off the bolt set no 25 & 26....... Is that referring to this bolt?


Mark and Skydancer:

I installed the clutch plates & friction plates in a different order this last time as I saw that it was different in the parts diagram (like you said) .....I reinstalled them with a friction plate last (touching the pressure plate).  It made no difference in how the bike acted but I will reinstall per the diagram you provided.

Question:    I am confused on the advise on backing off the bolt set no 25 & 26....... Is that referring to this bolt?

 

Mark:

The pushrod adjustment direction in the manual to me implies that the rod should push out rather far (towards the pressure plate)........   Your advise to me is to back it off so it doesn't stick out as far?    

Thank you for your help on this guys....... greatly appreciated!

If you have the pushrod out too far it will keep the pressure plate from clamping the discs.  It's like pulling the lever partially.

Read the manual on adjustment.  Back off the screw, thread it in until it touches pushrod, loosen about half turn and then tighten locknut.  (or whatever the manual says)  The adjustment screw is in the ignition side cover right on the other side of the engine.  Make sure you have cable slack at the handlebar lever before adjusting at engine.. 

 

No, Number 25 & 26 in this picture.

 

Here is a picture of the one on the CT1. The adjustment right  above the shifter. You should be able to wiggle it while the bike is sitting there and the clutch is not engaged. loosen the lock nut, turn the adjusting screw out (loose) then back in until it touches the push rod, then back out a 1/4 turn or so. then hold it while you tighten the lock nut. Afterwards you should be able to wiggle it with your hand. Then go do your adjustment up at the lever.  

 




 

OK, Mark and Skydancer........ you solved this for me!   The push rod was the culprit......it had been way over adjusted.

Just got back from tooling around the neighborhood for about 15 minutes...... Shifted fantastically and clutch released properly..