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Not sure now which side that pic is from but both sides were pretty equal for build up. Owner was a customer of ours & each 6 months at wof time [warrant of fitness] i'd note it getting slower but he wouldn't let me 'at it' lol. So when i ended up with it from the next owner [who thought it was slow] i got straight into there. Bike was tidy so didn't want to stuff the chrome except for the weld so used a fork spring with a scratchy end on a reverse slow drill & got it right through the header. Muffler body wasn't bad past where i could reach going in from where i cut it & scratching away. Don't recall ever needing to do a crank seal on the right [or left] on those as weren't hard on them but can see why you asked. Was just many years of non ideal running & the more build up the wider the throttle to get some speed & more oil pump pulled around--all downhill from there. Pic of your bike sometime would be nice. I had red [sort of red] & a blue one--& blue 30 years earlier--& a rust one from the skip bin haha. Talking the clutch actuator & not worth doing in your case but at work with the AG bike yamy 100 single with same principle i used to drill a small hole at an angle & poke some grease in as they suffered badly on the farm with dirt packed in behind even with the seal.

As said above--there's one in the actuator [& its lightly riveted in] but does escape sometimes when ya not looking when its apart. Trouble with adding a ball 'is' you'll be running a 1/4 ball in the pushrod tunnel against a 5/16 ball down the other end at the mushroom which can't be good. A 1/4x1/4 roller like my old bsa big end had would be better.

There is a ball that is held captive in the actuator. There is another ball inside the clutch. This one is often left out by mistake after a rebuild or repair.

Hi Guys,  Bought a non-running 1971 DT250.  Clutch lever didn't move so I cleaned up the actuator, or worm gear, and found a bent push rod.  Replaced the rod with one the same length and found I could not reach it with the adjustment screw.  I put a second ball in, and that worked out, so clutch lever working now.  I don't see a second ball in the parts diagrams but the photo of the 1971 Service Manual does show a second ball.  Is a second ball correct, or do I have another problem?Thanks, Doug 

Handlebars standard size?

Cable routed from where you have it and then alongside the left frame tube and to the actuator/lever on the underside of the engine.

If you haven't done so already, check out the Service Manual in the Tech Library - at the back is a comprehensive cable and routing diagram.

Could not find an accurate diagram of a '72 DT250 (without downloading one from Tech here).but had a similar leak problem on my '74 360. Turned out to be the seal on the clutch actuator there on the bottom of the crankcase. Dirt and debris gets on the shaft and "props" the lip of the  oil seal open. There are methods to clean without removing the oil seal (external operation) similar to cleaning fork seals. Thin, semi rigid plastic trimmed to look like a lowercase "q" (without the center cut out). It is then curled to the shaft size and eased between the seal lip and the shaft. Pull debris out around the circumference of the shaft.

Thanks for the info which is much appreciated. Any idea of where the other type of actuator with the nylon spiral as shown in the photo comes from?

Hello Syd. These were made a few years ago by 2 different vendors. They are not available anymore. If you have an actuator that has a cracked nylon spiral worm gear but is otherwise in good shape then I suggest this brass replacement from kdirepros.com.

www.kdirepros.com/Clutch-Actuator-Worm-Gear-p/214-16340-00.htm

 

Hello - Can you advise where did you get the new DT1 actuator arm from as shown in the photo - looks really nice. Do you have a link with the contact details so that I can get one, thanks Syd

www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...printed-parts#135820

Clutch levers and cables get a good workout and the actuator behind the counter shaft cover is famous for failing. Thread above is a good read and probably the most recent of many on the site.

Your DT1 C looks great.