I'm in the process of adjusting the clutch on my 74 250 and my question is. It looks like the clutch push rods will have constant tension on them and I thought this was a bad thing. With all the bike I ever had you would snug up the adjustment screw and then back off a quarter turn or so. thanks

What instructions are you following?

Mark, I am following the Clymer manual as well as the Yamaha shop manual and it says to turn the adjustment screw in until the lever under the motor is 10 degrees off center. thanks

The Tech Library has a copy of the 1974 Owner's Manual and Service Manual.

I'd use the method shown in the Owner's Manual except I would back off the freeplay at the handlebars all the way, make the adjustment at the engine as described (turn screw until freeplay gone then back off 1/4 turn and tighten locknut). Then I'd set the cable freeplay at the bars.

That "10 degree" thing they talk about in the Service Manual is important but not as important as having some play in the internal linkage... when you have the correct play in the internal linkage the lever should be in the right place anyway.

Mark, I downloaded and printed out the Owners manual: that killed at least one tree. Thanks for the advise and I will give it a try.

Many printers can be set up to print back to back, two sided copies. Then you kill half a tree, instead. Maybe you did that?

www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Mo...0A/CLUTCH/parts.html

On 'that'type motor "74 250/360A with the arm under the motor there's a 'big' screw with a tit on the en which hooks into a slot on the clutch arm. Number 25 has the titty & goes into the slot or groove around the arm as can be seen in the diagram. Anyway--'said tit' causes the arm to rise & fall & this is your adjustment due to the end where it touches the rod being tapered. So lowering it would take up cable clearance to a point then it'll start lifting & increasing cable play. All done by magic but bottom line is if you screw it in too far it'll lock up as the tit will bottom out in the groove--or the main thread gets through & touches with the same end result. Either way you only get half a turn of adjustment to lift & fall. Years since i've been in one 'but' i'd probably turn it in making sure it's engaged the go until it stops [cable unhooked to experiment] then back it out enough so you can watch the arm go up & down to maximum then you know you're within the adjustment range. Can't go wrong really. Wind out too far & the arm [theoretically] can fall out, or in too far & it'll go tight to operate.

picclick.co.uk/74-75-YAMAHA-TY250-Clutch...02.html#&gid=1&pid=1
if this pic works it shows what you have pretty clearly although is of a TY trials bike but same principle. TY might work from the top--can't remember-- but as i say--same principle. If pic doesn't work i'll try again.

Thank you all for this info