The bulbs are actually the original bulbs. All the lights on the bike work, I just can't get them to blink. I'm pretty sure the potted capacitor in the bottom of that cylinder is just shot. They never last 50 years, in fact I have a 50 year old Fender amplifier that I recently replaced all the capacitors in, and a larger Fender amplifier that's only 30 years old that the capacitors were going out and leaking. I tried putting a gap on the points, but then the lights didn't work at all. Think I just need to find another relay.

 Just found this one, it looks like it will work.

dratv.com/6voltursigre.html

my understanding is that this is a normally closed circuit that opens when the flowing current heats up a bi-metallic gizmo that opens the points.  If there is a capacitor in there it is likely to prevent arcing.

I found decent 6V flashers on eBay for cheap that had same wattage as the stock bulbs and worked great, but knowing that I had a stock one under my tank working perfectly would be nice.

This is how I converted my indicators to LED.
I'm not suggesting you do that but it shows how I kept the original relay in situ and hid the modern relay.
I did toy with removing the innards of the new relay and putting them inside the original one.
Hope it's helpful.
yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/1968...ed-indicators#125831

That's a great idea, if converting to LED.

The Thumpertalk Forum is where I found a link to that new relay, and the person that posted it said that it actually fits inside the old relay can. If so, I can just cut the wires off the old relay and solder them to the new relay lugs, and you won't even notice that I have a new relay on there.

Sorry, I could probably have worded my last reply better.

I don't think that the points on a couple of mine were opening, so I bent the arm so that they still touched when closed, but opened as per msavitt's post. 

Wait a minute... Fender amps? I've a 61 Vibrolux that needs a trained eye... 
But then, we are in the wrong forum for this kinda talk... 
Sneezles61

I'll bet by slightly bending the point arm you were compensating for a capacitor that was on its way out. They get weaker and weaker as they get older and start leaking, then they just won't work at all.

I received the new little flasher unit today (I linked it earlier in this thread) and it does indeed fit into the old flasher relay can! I just took the old coil assembly out, cut off the L and B wires, soldered them to the new flasher lugs, and put heat shrink tubing over the connections. The new unit pushes into the old can, and about a quarter inch down stops and stays in place very securely. And best of all, it works! 



 

Please help! What color wires go to the flasher relay!?!? The previous owner removed everything that flashed and it trying to make the signals work again!!! 

For the 1971 CT1C, brown and brown/white - I have attached a link to the part that would have been fitted originally.

If the previous owner hacked the wires from the main harness, the stubs might still be visible. They might have some tape covering the complete wires, or they might have been connected to each other, just to tidy things up.

FLASHER RELAY ASSEMBLY (115-83350-60) for CT1C 1971 USA - order at CMSNL