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Frame paint: 2K...or not 2K? That is the question!

  • nhsteve
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So I am at the stage where I need to think about painting the frame and all the black bits on my project. I have had frames powder coated, and they look great. My local guy is very meticulous and does a quality job, so I could go that way.

On a KZ1000 street bike project I decided to try a different approach, and soda blasted/sand blasted areas and then hand sanded everything, and did a POR-15 paint job, 2 coats of POR-15 as a base, then a POR-15 top coat. It actually came out quite nice, and I have had no issues after 3 years.

I have been eyeing the 2K epoxy spray cans of paint on Eastwood (pricey stuff!!). I would have to use the spray cans as I do not own a decent spray setup. But I am kind of put off by some of the very negative feedback comments, some of which are from guys painting motorcyle frames like me. A couple guys really did not like it (preparation could have been an issue, for sure).

I am willing to put in the effort (i.e.- the KZ project), but want a really good final job. Any feedback from this group on the 2K paint? Or suggestions as to powder coat, regular enamel, or ??? (Rustoleum--?? Don't laugh!)

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Last edit: 15 Apr 2021 07:28 by nhsteve. Reason: Information added
15 Apr 2021 07:26 #1

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for what its worth, I am the spray paint drip king.
I used 2K clear coat glamour on my tanks to lock in aged patina and this stuff is amazing.  I could not create a run and it laid down like glass and hardened like an epoxy.  I have no idea what is in this stuff, but my son who's studing organic chemistry told me it is made with some really bad ass solvents so if you do decide to do this stuff do it outside and don't breath it in.  I was able to hold my breath between coats (lap swimmer with signifcant boyancy!) and run up wind for breaths.
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15 Apr 2021 09:26 #2

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I love the 2K, my only concern is that it will be too glossy for a frame.  The original frames were by no means high gloss from the factory.  

I bought and use a respirator when I spray it.  A good 3M respirator is not that expensive.  

Both just my opinions. 

Mike
68 DT1, 70 DT1C MX, 71 CT1C, 71 RT1B, 71 DT1E MX, 73 AT3MX, 70 Husqvarna 250 Cross, 57 Matchless G80CS, 76 Honda Elsinore; 2015 Yamaha FZ-09; 2021 KTM 500 EXC-W
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15 Apr 2021 09:33 #3

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2k clear can be bought in matte, semi-gloss, and glossy finishes. 
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
15 Apr 2021 15:35 #4

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I didn't realize that, I would probably lean toward semi-gloss.
68 DT1, 70 DT1C MX, 71 CT1C, 71 RT1B, 71 DT1E MX, 73 AT3MX, 70 Husqvarna 250 Cross, 57 Matchless G80CS, 76 Honda Elsinore; 2015 Yamaha FZ-09; 2021 KTM 500 EXC-W
15 Apr 2021 15:41 #5

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Agreed on the black needs to not be super glossy. And also understood about the respirator.

Regarding the 2K clear, have you applied it over bare, clean metal? All of the verbage I have read on it in the ads seems to imply that it would be intended as a top-coat over some other paint.

I am polishing up the hubs and would like to put a clear coat on them as well.
16 Apr 2021 12:00 #6

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a good observation from another thread.   powder looks great. just did one.  powder can not be touched up though...at least not like paint can.  You can at least blend paint and maybe not even notice it.  

If I do another frame anytime soon, going to blast it and paint it.  The paint can be made hard enough. The paint that came off my 74 Yamaha was quite hard no reason with today's paints we can't do the same. 
74 DT 360 ... resto in progress.
20 Apr 2021 17:44 #7

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I used the Spraymax 2K gloss on my fork legs and engine side cases. Going on three years and all's good. I also used it as top coat on all of the silver paint. Good stuff!

 

 
71 Z50 Minitrail
72 RT2
74 250A
20 CB500X Halfrica Twin
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Last edit: 21 Apr 2021 06:26 by KennyV.
21 Apr 2021 06:25 #8

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My RD has a powder coated frame and I hate it, just too thick in places, the serial number is barely visible and it just doesn't look right.
With my classic car components I used Eastwood extreme chassis black paint with very good results, so if I was to paint a frame, I'd probably use that.
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22 Apr 2021 14:07 #9

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2K clear coat is fuel and solvent resistant, thus ideal for fuel tanks. Since 2k has a short life (in the can) after activated, would make sense to use on every painted surface that needs clear coat after you activate the can. The label will tell you how long before the contents are unable to be used. If I remember correctly, it is 16 hours after activation.
22 Apr 2021 19:30 #10

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