I need a governor assy for my DT, I even got one but the advance wasn't good. I couldn't get the 1.8, just the 1.2, if anyone has one available for sale, let me know.
and for now I'm going to try to adapt a governor assy that I have on hand, but I need images of an original to correctly know the angle at which the axis crease is positioned. Would anyone help me with this?
I don't think it's working to send photos via attachment.
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thank you very much

Hi from NZ & Welcome to the forum.
So you mean you can't get it set to open at1.8mm btdc but can get to 1.2btdc.
Not quite sure what's going on but should be achievable easy enough.
Without looking & going by long term memory lol,--the points base plate is very movable so with the gap set to 14 thou or close to 14 when open--which means up & open but not way around just before they close as sometimes for some unknown reason i've seen the gap get bigger late in the lift before closing.
So 14 thou gap, then go back to 1.8btdc & then with the advance held open move the base plate to get the points just parting.
Be goot if possible to add a pic or two of what ya up to.
Hope we can help or find you an advancer if it is necessary.
Also just to add--when you set the points & move the complete plate around to get the 1.8 btdc it never goes perfect & the points gap might alter slightly so it's a bit of a fiddle to get it right. It's not a perfect movement moving it around.

Greetings from Brazil, I was analyzing my governor assy and realized that I bought the wrong one, I have one from the yb125 1966, the angle of the crease is a different degree from the dt125, now I'm looking for a correct part or to make an adaptation to position the crease in the same angle that the governor of the Dt125

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Ok thanks for the photo.
It's a shame you can't use that one being nice & new.
From what you say i guess it must fit in but to far around. Could you cut another locating slot around to get it or would that new slot run into the current one.
If you kick started instead of electric it wouldn't matter if you had no retard so long as it's fixed at 1.8 & just set as a fixed cam like on my flywheel magneto 125 we have in NZ.
Someone will come up with a pic soon though.
Just thinking, not ideal, but could tap the locating tap up & out of the way. Might break off--might not--but i think the cam-advancer would be ok & 'not' move if tightened up good.
Mind you if that trick worked you could have the advancer fully working.
If it's full movement is less than the original it wouldn't matter so long as you have 1.8 & if doesn't retard back to near tdc for starting on the electric it'll be near enough. Worst thing to happen is it'd kick back on the electric but a good battery would fire it through on a closed throttle. Sorry, i've got some crazy ideas trying to save spending money lol.
I worked on them in the local shop from when they first arrived, & before that back to 1962 haha.