Hi all,

Recently i bought this beautifull DT125, though I am running into a problem with the clutch. Please see the attachments for the pictures. 

Basically: the clutch rod which engages the clutch internally is too short/does not get pushed out far enough. I have tried screwing the screw on the left side of the crankcase, directly under the clutch arm. This causes it to move up and down, but not push the clutch rod  farther or less far. Which is a bit weird to me. End of the line this means the clutch never engages, and thus never can be used. 

Does anyone know what causes this? Or how to fix this? I am particularly stumped about the clutch arm only moving up and down. 

Please let me know what i can do. 
Thomas. 

Greetings from Tennessee. 
 What year? Also check out partzilla you may be missing the steel ball look under clutch on partzilla

Greetings back, hope the weather is nice
you would be referring to item number 24 in this particular drawing? I havent checked that to be honest. Id need to tip it over tomorrow to see if it has it in there, or look with a flashlight. Will keep you updated, thanks in advance. 
 

You can look in the tech library for a service manual you can download it will show you how to adjust your clutch etc

Couple of things...  you've picked the right diagram so you may already know...  Most parts lists are for US models...  You have what looks like a 74-on DT125 without electric start.  Might be called a DT125F?  Not to be confused with the US 1979 DT125F that was a monoshock (aka "MX" many places outside the USA) model.  Your bike will be closer to a US model 74-75 or perhaps 1976 DT175.    There is a 1F9 parts manual in the tech library here that might be for your bike?

There's a "wedge" on the clutch actuator.  As shaft rotates, flat pushes pushrod.  Raising it all the way up is minimum freeplay.  You're likely missing the ball bearing like HT1kid already said which would make the total pushrod length too short.  It's not uncommon to roll out. 

This pic might help: 
 

Actuator is sideways in pic. You can see the "wedge" to the right on the picture which would be down inside the engine.  The flat on the wedge contacts the pushrod.  So raising it with the eccentric screw that engages the groove brings flat closer to pushrod reducing freeplay.  It only takes 1/2 turn on the adjustment screw to raise the shaft from all the way down (maximum play) to all the way up (minimum play)  Turning the screw more than that does nothing except jamming screw into shaft or disengaging eccentric pin from groove.

Remove those pesky rubber rings while you're in there. They don't serve any useful purpose & only aid clutch slip if the plates are less than perfect.

Hi all, thanks for your help. I fixed the problem. Indeed like pointed out, it was the missing bearing ball inside the hole. Massive thanks to all! Sorry for my late reply, last few days were hectic.